Departures_NN2 :_: Cautionary_JJ tale_NN1 for_IF enterprising_JJ readers_NN2 By_II PETER_NP1 DUNN_NP1 PERHAPS_RR the_AT Independent_JJ Traveller_NN1 ought_VMK to_TO carry_VVI some_DD sort_NN1 of_IO warning_NN1 :_: '_GE Reading_NP1 this_DD1 section_NN1 can_VM change_VVI your_APPGE life_NN1 ._. 
'_" It_PPH1 certainly_RR did_VDD for_IF Simon_NP1 Turner_NP1 ,_, who_PNQS read_VVD a_AT1 feature_NN1 on_II these_DD2 pages_NN2 a_AT1 year_NNT1 ago_RA written_JJ by_II Godfrey_NP1 Hodgson_NP1 on_II his_APPGE travels_NN2 around_II the_AT Michelin_NP1 '_GE Red_JJ Rocker_NP1 '_GE hotels_NN2 in_II the_AT region_NN1 around_II Toulouse_NP1 in_II south-west_ND1 France_NP1 ._. 
Mr_NNB Turner_NP1 was_VBDZ a_AT1 chartered_JJ surveyor_NN1 who_PNQS worked_VVD for_IF Hamptons_NP2 estate_NN1 agents_NN2 ,_, but_CCB had_VHD realised_VVN that_CST he_PPHS1 '_VBZ patently_RR was_VBDZ n't_XX suited_VVN to_II selling_VVG houses_NN2 '_GE ._. 
He_PPHS1 confesses_VVZ that_CST at_II the_AT age_NN1 of_IO 40_MC he_PPHS1 had_VHD reached_VVN '_GE the_AT proverbial_JJ midlife_NN1 crisis_NN1 '_GE and_CC was_VBDZ searching_VVG for_IF a_AT1 different_JJ way_NN1 of_IO life_NN1 ._. 
'_" I_PPIS1 had_VHD holidayed_VVN several_DA2 times_NNT2 in_II France_NP1 and_CC was_VBDZ toying_VVG with_IW the_AT idea_NN1 of_IO buying_VVG a_AT1 house_NN1 there_RL ,_, but_CCB with_IW no_AT definite_JJ plan_NN1 in_II mind_NN1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 had_VHD already_RR received_VVN details_NN2 of_IO properties_NN2 in_II several_DA2 regions_NN2 of_IO France_NP1 ,_, including_II the_AT Toulouse_NP1 area_NN1 ,_, when_CS I_PPIS1 providentially_RR read_VVD your_APPGE article_NN1 ,_, '_GE At_II the_AT sign_NN1 of_IO the_AT Red_JJ Rocker_NP1 '_GE ,_, the_AT catalyst_NN1 being_VBG the_AT mention_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 cheap_JJ flight_NN1 to_II Toulouse_NP1 from_II Heathrow_NP1 for_IF 116_MC return_NN1 ._. 
'_" He_PPHS1 immediately_RR booked_VVN a_AT1 flight_NN1 to_II Toulouse_NP1 ,_, saw_VVD a_AT1 house_NN1 35_MC miles_NNU2 north-west_ND1 of_IO Toulouse_NP1 in_II a_AT1 small_JJ hamlet_NN1 and_CC realised_VVD it_PPH1 was_VBDZ ideal_JJ as_II a_AT1 home_NN1 as_II31 well_II32 as_II33 an_AT1 auberge_NN1 ._. 
'_" I_PPIS1 discussed_VVD the_AT matter_NN1 with_IW my_APPGE wife_NN1 and_CC signed_VVD a_AT1 contract_NN1 straight_RR21 away_RR22 without_IW my_APPGE wife_NN1 seeing_VVG the_AT house_NN1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 then_RT left_VVD Hamptons_NP2 and_CC spent_VVD two_MC months_NNT2 at_II the_AT Berlitz_NP1 School_NN1 of_IO Language_NN1 in_II London_NP1 ._. 
'_GE Mr_NNB Turner_NP1 his_APPGE wife_NN1 and_CC three_MC daughters_NN2 aged_II eight_MC ,_, six_MC and_CC four_MC moved_VVD to_II France_NP1 in_II April_NPM1 and_CC his_APPGE auberge_NN1 opened_VVD in_II July_NPM1 ._. 
The_AT three_MC children_NN2 are_VBR now_RT attending_VVG the_AT local_JJ village_NN1 school_NN1 ._. 
'_GE Despite_II various_JJ teething_NN1 problems_NN2 we_PPIS2 are_VBR very_RG happy_JJ in_II our_APPGE new_JJ life_NN1 ,_, '_GE said_VVD Mr_NNB Turner_NP1 ._. 
'_GE The_AT auberge_NN1 is_VBZ an_AT1 attractive_JJ nineteenth-century_JJ house_NN1 standing_VVG in_II a_AT1 secluded_JJ garden_NN1 of_IO about_II one_MC1 acre_NNU1 with_IW glorious_JJ views_NN2 towards_II the_AT Pyrenees_NP2 ._. 
Guests_NN2 have_VH0 the_AT use_NN1 of_IO the_AT spacious_JJ ground-floor_JJ living_NN1 room_NN1 with_IW direct_JJ access_NN1 to_II the_AT large_JJ south-facing_JJ terrace_NN1 ._. 
There_EX are_VBR also_RR swings_VVZ and_CC a_AT1 games_NN2 room_NN1 for_IF the_AT children_NN2 ._. 
'_" There_EX are_VBR three_MC rooms_NN2 available_JJ :_: one_MC1 double_NN1 ,_, one_MC1 single_JJ and_CC a_AT1 family_NN1 room_NN1 ._. 
Bed_NN1 and_CC breakfast_NN1 prices_NN2 are_VBR around_RG 10_MC per_II person_NN1 for_IF adults_NN2 ,_, 5_MC for_IF children_NN2 (_( aged_II four_MC to_II 12_MC )_) ,_, children_NN2 under_RG four_MC are_VBR free_JJ ._. 
Evening_NNT1 meals_NN2 on_II request_NN1 at_II 5_MC per_II person_NN1 ._. 
Mid-life_NN1 crisis_NN1 readers_NN2 are_VBR duly_RR warned_VVN ._. 
Departures_NN2 :_: Record_NN1 billing_NN1 By_II PETER_NP1 DUNN_NP1 MR_NNB E_NP1 G_NP1 HARRIS_NP1 of_IO Harold_NP1 Wood_NP1 in_II Essex_NP1 is_VBZ claiming_VVG a_AT1 Guinness_NP1 Book_NN1 of_IO Records_NN2 entry_NN1 for_IF an_AT1 overcharge_NN1 on_II his_APPGE bill_NN1 during_II a_AT1 trip_NN1 to_II Bayeux_NP1 in_II Normandy_NP1 last_MD month_NNT1 ._. 
After_CS a_AT1 meal_NN1 for_IF four_MC at_II Les_NP1 Quatre_NP1 Saisons_NP2 restaurant_NN1 ,_, he_PPHS1 was_VBDZ presented_VVN with_IW a_AT1 bill_NN1 for_IF Fr_NPD1 1,887_MC ,_, around_RG 180_MC ._. 
When_CS he_PPHS1 later_RRR took_VVD the_AT trouble_NN1 to_TO add_VVI up_RP the_AT bill_NN1 he_PPHS1 discovered_VVD that_CST the_AT actual_JJ cost_NN1 was_VBDZ Fr_NPD1 1,481_MC ,_, around_RG 140_MC :_: an_AT1 overcharge_NN1 of_IO 40_MC ._. 
He_PPHS1 recovered_VVD this_DD1 money_NN1 the_AT following_JJ day_NNT1 ._. 
How_RGQ many_DA2 people_NN take_VV0 the_AT trouble_NN1 to_TO check_VVI their_APPGE hotel_NN1 or_CC restaurant_NN1 bills_NN2 these_DD2 days_NNT2 ?_? 
Perhaps_RR there_EX are_VBR others_NN2 who_PNQS have_VH0 been_VBN overcharged_VVN by_II more_DAR than_CSN 40_MC for_IF a_AT1 meal_NN1 ._. 
Departures_NN2 :_: Fares_NN2 that_CST care_VV0 By_II PETER_NP1 DUNN_NP1 NORTH-SOUTH_ND1 Travel_NN1 (_( 0245_MC 492882_MC )_) in_II Chelmsford_NP1 is_VBZ perhaps_RR Britain_NP1 's_GE first_MD environment-friendly_JJ travel_NN1 agency_NN1 ._. 
Non-Abta_NP1 and_CC non-Iata_NP1 ,_, it_PPH1 refuses_VVZ to_TO sell_VVI the_AT traditional_JJ sun-and-sand_JJ Mediterranean_JJ package_NN1 :_: instead_RR it_PPH1 offers_VVZ cheap_JJ air_NN1 fares_NN2 to_II '_GE responsive_JJ travellers_NN2 '_GE ._. 
All_DB its_APPGE profits_NN2 are_VBR covenanted_VVN to_II third_MD world_NN1 charities_NN2 :_: since_CS November_NPM1 1986_MC it_PPH1 has_VHZ contributed_VVN 33,500_MC to_II organisations_NN2 such_II21 as_II22 Unicef_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 Tibetan_JJ children_NN2 's_VBZ home_RL ,_, Oxfam_NP1 ,_, Church_NN1 Relief_NN1 in_II Uganda_NP1 and_CC others_NN2 ._. 
According_II21 to_II22 the_AT agency_NN1 's_GE director_NN1 ,_, Roger_NP1 Millman_NP1 ,_, who_PNQS is_VBZ also_RR director_NN1 of_IO the_AT Centre_NN1 for_IF the_AT Advancement_NN1 of_IO Responsive_JJ Travel_NN1 ,_, the_AT aim_NN1 is_VBZ to_TO encourage_VVI those_DD2 travel_VV0 alternatives_NN2 '_GE which_DDQ do_VD0 not_XX adversely_RR alter_VVI the_AT natives_NN2 '_GE ._. 
Wild_JJ isle_NN1 of_IO the_AT strange_JJ and_CC absolute_JJ :_: Alison_NP1 Lurie_NP1 followed_VVD Flaubert_NP1 ,_, Colette_NP1 and_CC Sarah_NP1 Bernhardt_NP1 to_TO find_VVI drama_NN1 and_CC mythology_NN1 on_II Belle-Ile_NN1 ,_, off_II the_AT coast_NN1 of_IO Brittany_NP1 By_II ALISON_NP1 LURIE_NP1 At_II the_AT siege_NN1 of_IO Belle-Isle_NP1 I_PPIS1 was_VBDZ there_RL all_DB the_AT while_NNT1 ;_; All_DB the_AT while_NNT1 ,_, all_DB the_AT while_NNT1 ,_, At_II the_AT siege_NN1 of_IO Belle-Isle_NP1 Until_CS last_MD month_NNT1 these_DD2 lines_NN2 were_VBDR only_RR a_AT1 nursery-rhyme_NN1 to_II me_PPIO1 ,_, accompanied_VVN in_II my_APPGE memory_NN1 by_II a_AT1 crude_JJ illustration_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 tower_NN1 by_II the_AT sea_NN1 and_CC square-rigged_JJ warship_NN1 balancing_VVG on_II humped_JJ waves_NN2 ._. 
I_PPIS1 thought_VVD of_IO the_AT place_NN1 as_II an_AT1 imaginary_JJ island_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 sort_NN1 of_IO French_NN1 Never_RR Never_RR Land_NP1 ._. 
But_CCB there_EX is_VBZ a_AT1 real_JJ Belle-Ile_NN1 in_II the_AT Atlantic_NP1 about_RG eight_MC miles_NNU2 off_II the_AT coast_NN1 of_IO southern_JJ Brittany_NP1 :_: a_AT1 mysterious_JJ ,_, beautiful_JJ ,_, isolated_JJ island_NN1 shaped_VVN like_II a_AT1 fish_NN swimming_VVG north-west_ND1 ,_, edged_VVN with_IW black_JJ cliffs_NN2 and_CC coves_NN2 of_IO pale-brown_JJ sugar-sand_NN1 ._. 
Just_RR off_II its_APPGE shore_NN1 stand_VV0 giant_JJ rocks_NN2 carved_VVN into_II strange_JJ jagged_JJ patterns_NN2 by_II the_AT sea_NN1 ._. 
The_AT place_NN1 has_VHZ always_RR attracted_VVN writers_NN2 and_CC artists_NN2 and_CC lovers_NN2 of_IO strange_JJ and_CC dramatic_JJ scenery_NN1 ._. 
Colette_NP1 went_VVD there_RL at_II 21_MC ._. 
While_CS her_APPGE unpleasant_JJ husband_NN1 shut_VVD himself_PPX1 in_II his_APPGE room_NN1 and_CC wrote_VVD letters_NN2 ,_, she_PPHS1 explored_VVD the_AT island_NN1 with_IW Paul_NP1 Masson_NP1 and_CC for_IF the_AT first_MD time_NNT1 in_II her_APPGE life_NN1 '_GE tasted_VVD and_CC touched_VVD the_AT salt_NN1 ,_, the_AT sand_NN1 ,_, the_AT seaweed_NN1 ,_, the_AT odorous_JJ soft_JJ bed_NN1 of_IO the_AT receding_JJ sea_NN1 ,_, the_AT dripping_NN1 fish_NN '_GE ._. 
The_AT sea-gravel_NN1 seemed_VVD to_II her_PPHO1 to_TO be_VBI composed_VVN of_IO '_GE shattered_JJ rubies_NN2 tinted_VVD with_IW mauve_NN1 '_GE ._. 
Flaubert_NP1 describes_VVZ Belle-Ile_JJ at_RR21 length_RR22 in_II Par_NP1 les_FW Champs_NP1 et_NP1 par_NN1 les_FW Greves_NP1 ;_; Courbet_NP1 ,_, Monet_NP1 ,_, and_CC Matisse_NP1 lived_VVD and_CC painted_VVN there_RL ._. 
Later_RRR ,_, Andre_NP1 Breton_NP1 ,_, Salvador_NP1 Dali_NP1 ,_, and_CC other_JJ surrealists_NN2 stayed_VVD and_CC worked_VVD in_II a_AT1 now-destroyed_JJ hotel_NN1 on_II its_APPGE wild_JJ western_JJ shore_NN1 ,_, the_AT famed_JJ Cote_NP1 Sauvage_NP1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 reached_VVD Belle-Ile_NN1 by_II ferry_NN1 from_II the_AT peninsula_NN1 of_IO Quiberon_NP1 ,_, after_CS a_AT1 seven-hour_JJ drive_NN1 in_II 27-degree_JJ heat_NN1 from_II the_AT Paris_NP1 airport_NN1 that_CST nothing_PN1 on_II earth_NN1 would_VM induce_VVI me_PPIO1 to_TO repeat_VVI though_CS my_APPGE two_MC companions_NN2 ,_, one_MC1 British_JJ and_CC one_MC1 French_NN1 ,_, conversed_VVD enthusiastically_RR on_II opera_NN1 ,_, European_JJ politics_NN1 ,_, and_CC structural_JJ anthropology_NN1 ._. 
(_( A_AT1 better_JJR alternative_NN1 might_VM be_VBI to_TO travel_VVI by_II rail_NN1 or_CC plane_NN1 to_II L'Orient_NP1 ,_, 30_MC miles_NNU2 west_ND1 ,_, and_CC rent_VV0 a_AT1 car_NN1 ._. )_) 
As_II a_AT1 result_NN1 of_IO the_AT journey_NN1 ,_, however_RR ,_, I_PPIS1 can_VM report_VVI that_DD1 French_JJ motorway_NN1 food_NN1 is_VBZ greatly_RR superior_JJ to_II American_JJ ._. 
We_PPIS2 were_VBDR offered_VVN fresh_JJ do-it-yourself_JJ salads_NN2 ,_, good_JJ local_JJ cheeses_NN2 ,_, strawberry_NN1 tart_NN1 and_CC chocolate_NN1 mousse_NN1 ._. 
The_AT souvenirs_NN2 on_II sale_NN1 ,_, though_CS ,_, were_VBDR of_IO intriguing_JJ awfulness_NN1 ;_; my_APPGE favourite_NN1 was_VBDZ a_AT1 plastic_NN1 female_NN1 head_NN1 enclosing_VVG a_AT1 dried_JJ and_CC shrivelled_JJ bouquet_NN1 a_AT1 dead-metaphor_JJ version_NN1 of_IO the_AT French_JJ custom_NN1 of_IO naming_VVG women_NN2 after_II flowers_NN2 ,_, perhaps_RR ._. 
Quiberon_NN1 is_VBZ just_RR south_ND1 of_IO the_AT village_NN1 of_IO Carnac_NP1 ,_, where_CS mile-long_JJ alleys_NN2 of_IO menhirs_NN2 ,_, or_CC standing-stones_NN2 ,_, erected_VVN in_II prehistoric_JJ times_NNT2 ,_, wade_VV0 through_II fields_NN2 of_IO tall_JJ rose-beige_JJ grass_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ a_AT1 crowded_JJ tourist_NN1 centre_NN1 ,_, heavy_JJ on_II souvenir_NN1 shops_NN2 and_CC jokey_JJ exploitation_NN1 of_IO local_JJ sights_NN2 ;_; the_AT cafe_NN1 opposite_II the_AT ferry_NN1 landing_NN1 was_VBDZ advertising_VVG a_AT1 giant_JJ hamburger_NN1 called_VVN Le_NP1 Menhir_NP1 ._. 
Belle-Ile_NN1 ,_, however_RR ,_, seems_VVZ to_TO belong_VVI to_II a_AT1 past_JJ era_NN1 of_IO modest_JJ and_CC amateur_JJ tourism_NN1 ._. 
Le_NP1 Palais_NP1 ,_, where_CS the_AT ferry_NN1 docks_NN2 ,_, is_VBZ an_AT1 agreeable_JJ ,_, unspoilt_JJ little_JJ town_NN1 of_IO ancient_JJ houses_NN2 and_CC cobbled_JJ squares_NN2 ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ dominated_VVN by_II the_AT imposing_JJ Citadelle_NP1 de_NP1 Vauban_NP1 ,_, constructed_VVN in_II 1549_MC to_TO defend_VVI the_AT island_NN1 against_II invaders_NN2 ._. 
The_AT citadel_NN1 's_GE rough_JJ ,_, sheer_JJ pale-brown_JJ outer_JJ walls_NN2 and_CC ramparts_NN2 resemble_VV0 a_AT1 giant_JJ sandcastle_NN1 built_VVN on_II the_AT edge_NN1 of_IO the_AT sea_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ now_RT a_AT1 museum_NN1 of_IO military_JJ history_NN1 ,_, but_CCB was_VBDZ once_RR full_JJ of_IO armed_JJ men_NN2 and_CC artillery_NN1 ._. 
The_AT siege_NN1 commemorated_VVN in_II my_APPGE nursery_NN1 rhyme_NN1 took_VVD place_NN1 in_II 1761_MC :_: an_AT1 English_JJ fleet_NN1 cut_VVN off_II supplies_NN2 to_II the_AT citadel_NN1 ,_, and_CC after_II 38_MC days_NNT2 the_AT garrison_NN1 surrendered_VVD ._. 
Until_CS about_RG 20_MC years_NNT2 ago_RA the_AT citadel_NN1 still_RR served_VVN as_CSA barracks_NN and_CC prison_NN1 ,_, and_CC seems_VVZ to_TO have_VHI been_VBN thought_VVN suitable_JJ for_IF confining_JJ revolutionaries_NN2 ._. 
Placide_VV0 Touiss_NP1 ant-L'Ouverture_NP1 ,_, son_NN1 of_IO the_AT liberator_NN1 of_IO Haiti_NP1 ,_, was_VBDZ imprisoned_VVN there_RL ,_, and_CC so_RR was_VBDZ ,_, more_RGR recently_RR ,_, Messali_NP1 Hadj_NP1 ,_, the_AT Algerian_JJ nationalist_NN1 ._. 
After_CS the_AT political_JJ disturbances_NN2 of_IO 1848_MC ,_, Karl_NP1 Marx_NP1 ,_, with_IW other_JJ radicals_NN2 ,_, spent_VVD time_NNT1 in_II an_AT1 internment_NN1 camp_NN1 on_II the_AT island_NN1 ._. 
In_II the_AT summer_NNT1 the_AT ferry_NN1 also_RR runs_VVZ from_II Quiberon_NP1 to_II the_AT little_JJ fishing_NN1 port_NN1 of_IO Sauzon_NP1 ,_, which_DDQ is_VBZ almost_RR postcard-pretty_JJ from_II a_AT1 distance_NN1 but_CCB given_VVN satisfying_JJ reality_NN1 in_II close-up_NN1 by_II the_AT sounds_NN2 and_CC smells_NN2 of_IO its_APPGE trade_NN1 and_CC the_AT stacks_NN2 of_IO water-roughened_JJ lobster_NN1 traps_NN2 and_CC water-soaked_JJ nets_NN2 and_CC floats_NN2 ._. 
On_II the_AT jetty_NN1 near_II the_AT little_JJ lighthouse_NN1 is_VBZ a_AT1 remarkably_RR good_JJ restaurant_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 sat_VVD on_II its_APPGE terrace_NN1 overlooking_VVG the_AT harbour_NN1 ,_, watching_VVG the_AT sky_NN1 blush_VVI rose-red_JJ and_CC devouring_VVG plum_NN1 oysters_NN2 ,_, crabs_NN2 ,_, and_CC langoustines_NN2 caught_VVD that_CST same_DA day_NNT1 and_CC the_AT first_MD snails_NN2 I_PPIS1 have_VH0 ever_RR had_VHN that_DD1 did_VDD not_XX taste_VVI like_II bits_NN2 of_IO black_JJ rubber_JJ boot_NN1 fried_VVN in_II garlic_NN1 and_CC olive_JJ oil_NN1 ._. 
The_AT Atlantic_NP1 coast_NN1 of_IO Belle-Ile_NN1 is_VBZ known_VVN as_II the_AT Cote_NP1 Sauvage_NP1 ,_, and_CC in_II most_DAT places_NN2 is_VBZ sufficiently_RR savage_JJ to_TO deter_VVI any_DD invader_NN1 ._. 
In_II the_AT nineteenth_MD century_NNT1 the_AT actress_NN1 Sarah_NP1 Bernhardt_NP1 ,_, '_GE attracted_JJ by_II the_AT Absolute_JJ ,_, '_" as_CSA one_MC1 guidebook_NN1 puts_VVZ it_PPH1 ,_, built_VVD a_AT1 chateau_NN1 high_JJ on_II the_AT cliff_NN1 near_II its_APPGE northernmost_JJ end_NN1 ,_, the_AT Pointe_NP1 des_NP1 Poulains_NN2 (_( Foals_NN2 '_GE Point_NN1 )_) ,_, where_CS the_AT offshore_JJ rocks_NN2 are_VBR said_VVN to_TO resemble_VVI young_JJ horses_NN2 galloping_VVG in_II the_AT swaying_JJ navy-blue_JJ sea_NN1 ._. 
Her_APPGE house_NN1 is_VBZ in_II ruins_NN2 now_RT ,_, covered_VVN with_IW flowering_JJ weeds_NN2 and_CC inhabited_VVN only_RR by_II seagulls_NN2 ._. 
While_CS we_PPIS2 were_VBDR on_II the_AT beach_NN1 below_II another_DD1 tourist_NN1 tried_VVD to_TO climb_VVI up_II21 to_II22 the_AT ruin_NN1 ;_; but_CCB a_AT1 flock_NN1 of_IO dive-bombing_JJ gulls_NN2 ,_, screaming_VVG histrionically_RR ,_, drove_VVD him_PPHO1 off._NNU hree_NN1 kilometres_NNU2 south_ND1 of_IO the_AT Point_NN1 des_NP1 Poulains_NN2 is_VBZ a_AT1 spectacular_JJ sea-level_JJ cave_NN1 ,_, the_AT Grotte_NP1 de_NP1 l'Apothicairerie_NP1 ._. 
Its_APPGE name_NN1 comes_VVZ from_II the_AT cormorants_NN2 '_GE nests_NN2 which_DDQ in_II the_AT past_NN1 were_VBDR ranged_VVN in_II rows_NN2 along_II shelves_NN2 in_II the_AT wet_JJ black_JJ rock_NN1 ,_, like_II jars_NN2 in_II a_AT1 chemist_NN1 's_GE shop_NN1 ._. 
Now_RT only_RR the_AT sea_NN1 thunders_NN2 rhythmically_RR through_II the_AT grotto_NN1 ,_, flinging_VVG up_RP fans_NN2 of_IO salty_JJ spray_NN1 ._. 
Further_RRR along_II the_AT coast_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT most_RGT amazing_JJ sight_NN1 of_IO all_DB ,_, the_AT Aiguilles_NP2 (_( needles_NN2 )_) de_NP1 Port-Coton_NP1 :_: a_AT1 chain_NN1 of_IO huge_JJ ,_, spiky_JJ dark_JJ rocks_NN2 that_CST emerge_VV0 from_II the_AT sea_NN1 like_II the_AT petrified_JJ remains_NN2 of_IO some_DD prehistoric_JJ monster_NN1 ._. 
The_AT waves_NN2 around_II these_DD2 rocks_NN2 churn_VV0 up_RP a_AT1 salty_JJ froth_NN1 that_CST is_VBZ said_VVN to_TO resemble_VVI cotton-wool_NN1 ,_, though_CS to_II me_PPIO1 it_PPH1 seemed_VVD more_RRR like_II the_AT foaming_JJ spit_NN1 of_IO an_AT1 angry_JJ sea-serpent_NN1 ._. 
After_II touring_VVG the_AT Cote_NP1 Sauvage_NP1 we_PPIS2 had_VHD a_AT1 perfect_JJ lunch_NN1 in_II a_AT1 crep_NN1 erie_NN1 :_: galettes_NN2 whole-wheat_JJ crepes_NN2 made_VVN from_II sarazin_NN1 (_( black_JJ wheat_NN1 )_) filled_VVD with_IW ham_NN1 or_CC melted_JJ cheese_NN1 and_CC accompanied_VVN by_II foaming_JJ mugs_NN2 of_IO Breton_JJ cider_NN1 ;_; then_RT crisp_JJ lacy_JJ brown_JJ crepes_NN2 with_IW sugar_NN1 and_CC jam_NN1 or_CC chocolate_NN1 sauce_NN1 ,_, which_DDQ bore_VV0 no_AT resemblance_NN1 to_II the_AT limp_JJ pancakes_NN2 served_VVN under_II that_DD1 name_NN1 in_II America_NP1 ._. 
As_II the_AT afternoon_NNT1 temperature_NN1 rose_VVD our_APPGE thoughts_NN2 turned_VVN to_II the_AT beaches_NN2 ._. 
There_EX are_VBR many_DA2 on_II the_AT quieter_JJR north_ND1 shore_NN1 or_CC Cote_NP1 du_FW Dedans_NN2 ,_, all_DB beautiful_JJ and_CC uncrowded_JJ ._. 
The_AT best-known_JJ is_VBZ Les_FW Grands_FW Sables_NN2 ,_, over_II a_AT1 mile_NNU1 long_JJ and_CC backed_VVN by_II cliffs_NN2 where_RRQ the_AT gorse-bushes_NN2 were_VBDR explosions_NN2 of_IO butter-yellow_JJ fireworks_NN2 ._. 
On_II the_AT Cote_NP1 Sauvage_NP1 is_VBZ Port-Donant_JJ ,_, where_CS the_AT surf_NN1 is_VBZ exciting_JJ and_CC sometimes_RT dangerous_JJ ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ popular_JJ with_IW summer_NNT1 bathers_NN2 ,_, but_CCB at_II other_JJ times_NNT2 the_AT water_NN1 is_VBZ cold_JJ and_CC the_AT fine_JJ sand_NN1 dotted_VVN with_IW jellyfish_NN like_II complicated_JJ hot-weather_JJ dishes_NN2 :_: semi-transparent_JJ yellow-streaked_JJ boeuf_NN1 en_FW daube_NN1 and_CC deep_JJ magenta_NN1 grape_NN1 aspic_NN1 ._. 
The_AT central_JJ part_NN1 of_IO the_AT island_NN1 seemed_VVD at_RR21 first_RR22 to_TO belong_VVI to_II another_DD1 and_CC less_RGR dramatic_JJ world_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 passed_VVD gently_RR rolling_JJ pastures_NN2 where_RRQ fat_JJ sheep_NN and_CC cows_NN2 grazed_VVD ,_, empty_JJ dusty_JJ roads_NN2 edged_VVN with_IW white_JJ convolvulus_NN and_CC daisies_NN2 ,_, and_CC fields_NN2 of_IO grain_NN1 rippling_VVG in_II the_AT soft_JJ wind_NN1 like_II beige_JJ velvet_NN1 stroked_VVD by_II an_AT1 invisible_JJ hand_NN1 ._. 
But_CCB even_RR here_RL there_EX were_VBDR signs_NN2 that_CST we_PPIS2 were_VBDR not_XX far_RR from_II the_AT sea_NN1 or_CC from_II strange_JJ phenomena_NN2 ._. 
The_AT cypress_NN1 es_FW on_II the_AT heights_NN2 had_VHD grey_JJ wind-contorted_JJ branches_NN2 and_CC trunks_NN2 ,_, mimicking_VVG the_AT twisted_JJ layers_NN2 of_IO rock_NN1 by_II the_AT ocean_NN1 ;_; and_CC at_II a_AT1 distance_NN1 the_AT whitewashed_JJ farmhouses_NN2 ,_, with_IW their_APPGE triangular_JJ gable_NN1 ends_NN2 ,_, looked_VVN like_II fleets_NN2 of_IO sailboats_NN2 moored_VVN beyond_II the_AT farthest_JJT field_NN1 ._. 
Standing_VVG in_II the_AT fields_NN2 in_II the_AT centre_NN1 of_IO the_AT island_NN1 were_VBDR two_MC tall_JJ stone_NN1 menhirs_NN2 ,_, known_VVN locally_RR as_CSA Jean_NP1 and_CC Jeanne_NP1 ._. 
According_II21 to_II22 legend_NN1 they_PPHS2 were_VBDR young_JJ lovers_NN2 whom_PNQO the_AT druids_NN2 forbade_VVD to_TO marry_VVI ._. 
When_CS they_PPHS2 disobeyed_VVD they_PPHS2 were_VBDR transformed_VVN into_II pillars_NN2 of_IO rock_NN1 and_CC placed_VVN where_CS they_PPHS2 could_VM see_VVI each_PPX221 other_PPX222 but_CCB never_RR meet_VV0 ._. 
Once_RR every_AT1 100_MC years_NNT2 they_PPHS2 resume_VV0 their_APPGE human_JJ shapes_NN2 and_CC renew_VV0 their_APPGE embraces_NN2 ;_; anyone_PN1 who_PNQS sees_VVZ them_PPHO2 then_RT is_VBZ turned_VVN to_II stone_NN1 ._. 
Flaubert_NP1 ,_, who_PNQS visited_VVD the_AT island_NN1 in_II 1847_MC ,_, got_VVD lost_JJ in_II these_DD2 deserted_VVN ,_, deceptively_RR placid_JJ fields_NN2 ,_, of_IO which_DDQ he_PPHS1 wrote_VVD :_: '_" One_PN1 would_VM have_VHI said_VVN that_CST all_DB those_DD2 who_PNQS owned_VVD them_PPHO2 profited_VVD from_II them_PPHO2 but_CCB did_VDD not_XX like_VVI them_PPHO2 ._. 
'_" He_PPHS1 preferred_VVD the_AT shore_NN1 ,_, where_CS the_AT long_JJ vistas_NN2 of_IO rocks_NN2 with_IW their_APPGE thick_JJ coverings_NN2 of_IO seaweed_NN1 appeared_VVD to_II him_PPHO1 as_II the_AT heads_NN2 of_IO '_GE black_JJ phantoms_NN2 emerging_VVG from_II the_AT underworld_NN1 ,_, '_GE and_CC the_AT grottos_NN2 were_VBDR full_JJ of_IO strange_JJ brilliantly_RR coloured_JJ rocks_NN2 and_CC polished_JJ white_JJ beds_NN2 of_IO gravel_NN1 which_DDQ seemed_VVD about_II '_" to_TO receive_VVI the_AT water-nymph_NN1 when_CS she_PPHS1 emerged_VVD from_II the_AT waves_NN2 '_GE ._. 
Like_II Flaubert_NP1 ,_, I_PPIS1 left_VVD Belle-Ile_NN1 hoping_VVG to_TO return_VVI and_CC hoping_VVG ,_, too_RR ,_, that_CST the_AT island_NN1 's_GE isolation_NN1 and_CC the_AT occasional_JJ fogs_NN2 that_CST cover_VV0 it_PPH1 would_VM discourage_VVI too_RG many_DA2 other_JJ tourists_NN2 ._. 
Alison_NP1 Lurie_NP1 is_VBZ Professor_NN1 of_IO Children_NN2 's_GE Literature_NN1 at_II Cornell_NP1 University_NN1 ,_, New_NP1 York_NP1 ._. 
Her_APPGE latest_JJT book_NN1 The_AT Truth_NN1 about_II Lorin_NP1 Jones_NP1 (_( Abacus_NP1 ,_, 3.99_MC )_) has_VHZ just_RR been_VBN published_VVN in_II paperback_NN1 ._. 
Alison_NP1 Lurie_NP1 's_GE next_MD book_NN1 Do_VD0 n't_XX Tell_VV0 the_AT Grown-ups_NN2 ,_, on_II children_NN2 's_GE literature_NN1 ,_, will_VM be_VBI published_VVN next_MD year_NNT1 by_II Bloomsbury_NP1 ._. 
FACT_NN1 FILE_NN1 Flights_NN2 :_: Brit_NN1 Air_NN1 (_( 01-499_MCMC 9511_MC )_) offers_VVZ daily_RR direct_JJ services_NN2 from_II Gatwick_NP1 to_II Brest_NP1 and_CC Rennes_NN2 ;_; a_AT1 special_JJ weekend_NNT1 fare_NN1 to_II both_DB2 destinations_NN2 costs_VVZ 99_MC return_NN1 (_( travel_VV0 out_II Friday_NPD1 ,_, return_VV0 Sunday_NPD1 or_CC travel_VV0 out_II Saturday_NPD1 and_CC return_VV0 Monday_NPD1 )_) ._. 
Normal_JJ economy_NN1 return_NN1 is_VBZ 262_MC ._. 
Ferry_VV0 :_: Brittany_NP1 Ferries_NN2 (_( 0752_MC 221321_MC )_) has_VHZ a_AT1 daily_JJ service_NN1 from_II Plymouth_NP1 to_II Roscoff_NP1 ,_, crossing_VVG time_NNT1 six_MC hours_NNT2 ._. 
A_AT1 five-day_JJ bargain_NN1 return_NN1 for_IF car_NN1 and_CC two_MC adults_NN2 costs_VVZ 84_MC ._. 
Berths_NN2 from_II 9_MC per_II person_NN1 ._. 
No_AT service_NN1 23_MC December_NPM1 1989_MC to_II 20_MC January_NPM1 1990_MC ;_; one_MC1 sailing_VVG a_AT1 week_NNT1 on_II the_AT route_NN1 from_II November_NPM1 to_II February_NPM1 ._. 
Brittany_NP1 Ferries_NN2 also_RR has_VHZ a_AT1 daily_JJ crossing_NN1 from_II Portsmouth_NP1 to_II St_NP1 Malo_NP1 :_: crossing_VVG time_NNT1 about_RG nine_MC hours_NNT2 ._. 
Bargain_VV0 five-day_JJ return_NN1 fare_NN1 for_IF two_MC adults_NN2 in_II a_AT1 car_NN1 from_II 84_MC ._. 
Berths_NN2 from_II 10.50_MC per_II person_NN1 ._. 
No_AT service_NN1 from_II mid-November_NPM1 to_II mid-February_NPM1 ._. 
Car_NN1 hire_NN1 :_: Seven_MC days_NNT2 hire_VV0 with_IW Hertz_NNU (_( 01-679_MCMC 1799_MC )_) under_II its_APPGE Europe_NP1 on_II Wheels_NN2 programme_NN1 costs_VVZ from_II 216_MC ,_, including_II unlimited_JJ mileage_NN1 and_CC all_DB extras_NN2 ._. 
Skiing_NN1 :_: A_ZZ1 Swiss_JJ role_NN1 on_II the_AT slide_NN1 :_: Chris_NP1 Gill_NP1 asks_VVZ why_RRQ few_DA2 British_JJ skiers_NN2 choose_VV0 the_AT cantons_NN2 By_II CHRIS_NP1 GILL_NP1 THOSE_DD2 who_PNQS care_VV0 about_II such_DA things_NN2 are_VBR at_RR21 present_RR22 locked_VVN in_II combat_NN1 over_II the_AT issue_NN1 of_IO whether_CSW the_AT greatest_JJT number_NN1 of_IO British_JJ skiers_NN2 go_VV0 to_II Austria_NP1 (_( which_DDQ traditionally_RR enjoys_VVZ the_AT distinction_NN1 )_) or_CC to_II France_NP1 (_( which_DDQ is_VBZ the_AT flavour_NN1 of_IO the_AT decade_NNT1 )_) ._. 
Both_RR ,_, according_II21 to_II22 the_AT latest_JJT figures_NN2 conjured_VVN out_II21 of_II22 a_AT1 hat_NN1 by_II the_AT French_NN1 ,_, have_VH0 just_RR over_RG 35_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 of_IO the_AT market_NN1 ._. 
Of_IO much_DA1 more_DAR interest_NN1 to_II Alp-watchers_NN2 is_VBZ the_AT performance_NN1 of_IO the_AT other_JJ great_JJ Alpine_JJ skiing_NN1 nations_NN2 ._. 
The_AT French_NN1 reckon_VV0 that_CST Italy_NP1 now_RT gets_VVZ 7_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 of_IO our_APPGE custom_NN1 and_CC ,_, more_RGR surprisingly_RR ,_, that_CST Switzerland_NP1 gets_VVZ only_RR 5_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 ._. 
Once_RR upon_II a_AT1 time_NNT1 ,_, this_DD1 might_VM have_VHI been_VBN 95_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 ._. 
This_DD1 is_VBZ partly_RR a_AT1 consequence_NN1 of_IO simple_JJ arithmetic_NN1 ._. 
Switzerland_NP1 has_VHZ lots_PN of_IO Alps_NP2 ,_, but_CCB they_PPHS2 are_VBR now_RT less_RGR densely_RR equipped_VVN with_IW skiers_NN2 '_GE dormitories_NN2 than_CSN those_DD2 of_IO France_NP1 and_CC Austria_NP1 ._. 
Many_DA2 of_IO the_AT big_JJ names_NN2 of_IO Swiss_JJ skiing_NN1 have_VH0 fewer_DAR than_CSN 10,000_MC beds_NN2 ;_; the_AT total_NN1 for_IF Val_NP1 d'Isere/Tignes_FU approaches_VVZ 50,000_MC ._. 
But_CCB it_PPH1 is_VBZ more_RRR a_AT1 consequence_NN1 of_IO the_AT view_NN1 we_PPIS2 have_VH0 of_IO Switzerland_NP1 and_CC of_IO Swiss_JJ skiing_NN1 ._. 
A_AT1 dominant_JJ factor_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT idea_NN1 that_CST Switzerland_NP1 is_VBZ expensive_JJ ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ not_XX entirely_RR without_IW foundation_NN1 :_: holidaying_VVG on_II the_AT cheap_JJ in_II such_DA places_NN2 as_CSA super-smart_JJ St_NP1 Moritz_NP1 ,_, Zermatt_NP1 and_CC Gstaad_NP1 is_VBZ next_II21 to_II22 impossible_JJ ,_, whatever_DDQV the_AT tourist_NN1 offices_NN2 there_EX might_VM say_VVI ._. 
But_CCB it_PPH1 is_VBZ not_XX expensive_JJ when_CS you_PPY compare_VV0 like_JJ with_IW like_JJ that_REX21 is_REX22 ,_, when_CS you_PPY compare_VV0 French_NN1 with_IW Swiss_JJ ._. 
Of_RR21 course_RR22 ,_, if_CS you_PPY squeeze_VV0 yourself_PPX1 and_CC your_APPGE mates_NN2 into_II a_AT1 '_GE compact_NN1 '_GE studio_NN1 and_CC live_VV0 on_II bread_NN1 and_CC cheese_NN1 ,_, you_PPY can_VM live_VVI more_RGR cheaply_RR in_II France_NP1 than_CSN in_II a_AT1 Swiss_JJ hotel_NN1 ._. 
But_CCB in_II the_AT important_JJ area_NN1 of_IO mountain_NN1 lunches_NN2 ,_, for_REX21 example_REX22 ,_, my_APPGE experiences_NN2 (_( and_CC the_AT distilled_JJ findings_NN2 of_IO those_DD2 who_PNQS report_VV0 to_II The_AT Good_JJ Skiing_NN1 Guide_NN1 on_II such_DA matters_NN2 )_) point_NN1 to_II parity_NN1 between_II France_NP1 and_CC Switzerland_NP1 ,_, with_IW Austria_NP1 and_CC Italy_NP1 providing_VVG worthwhile_JJ savings_NN2 ._. 
It_PPH1 remains_VVZ true_JJ that_CST Switzerland_NP1 is_VBZ not_XX a_AT1 place_NN1 for_IF '_GE convenience_NN1 '_GE skiing_NN1 in_II the_AT way_NN1 that_CST France_NP1 is_VBZ ._. 
Ski_VV0 areas_NN2 tend_VV0 to_TO be_VBI as_RG fragmented_JJ now_RT as_CSA they_PPHS2 were_VBDR 20_MC or_CC 30_MC years_NNT2 ago_RA ._. 
In_II some_DD cases_NN2 this_DD1 may_VM be_VBI attributable_JJ to_II the_AT Swiss_JJ tendency_NN1 to_TO conserve_VVI (_( money_NN1 ,_, not_XX nature_NN1 )_) ;_; in_II others_NN2 ,_, the_AT terrain_NN1 makes_VVZ links_NN2 between_II areas_NN2 impracticable_JJ or_CC unnecessary_JJ ._. 
Zermatt_VV0 ,_, for_REX21 example_REX22 ,_, is_VBZ a_AT1 resort_NN1 where_CS many_DA2 skiers_NN2 must_VM have_VHI wished_VVN for_IF better_JJR links_NN2 ._. 
In_II Davos_NP1 and_CC St_NP1 Moritz_NP1 ,_, the_AT areas_NN2 are_VBR so_RG widely_RR spread_VVN and_CC rewarding_VVG individually_RR that_CST the_AT idea_NN1 of_IO linking_VVG them_PPHO2 scarcely_RR arises_VVZ ._. 
One_MC1 resort_NN1 seizing_VVG the_AT bull_NN1 by_II the_AT horns_NN2 is_VBZ little_RR old_JJ Adelboden_NN1 ,_, which_DDQ for_IF 1991_MC is_VBZ building_VVG a_AT1 big_JJ new_JJ gondola_NN1 to_TO link_VVI two_MC of_IO its_APPGE smaller_JJR ski_NN1 areas_NN2 to_II its_APPGE major_JJ one_PN1 ._. 
Whatever_DDQV its_APPGE weaknesses_NN2 ,_, Switzerland_NP1 always_RR has_VHZ a_AT1 couple_NN1 of_IO aces_NN2 up_II the_AT sleeve_NN1 ._. 
The_AT first_MD is_VBZ that_CST there_EX are_VBR no_AT Alps_NP2 like_II the_AT Swiss_JJ Alps_NP2 ._. 
The_AT French_NN1 ,_, Italian_JJ and_CC Austrian_JJ Alps_NP2 have_VH0 their_APPGE spectacles_NN2 ,_, but_CCB they_PPHS2 are_VBR not_XX presented_VVN so_RG conveniently_RR for_IF the_AT the_AT idle_JJ downhill_JJ skier_NN1 (_( or_CC even_RR non-skier_JJ )_) as_II the_AT great_JJ set-pieces_NN2 of_IO the_AT Swiss_JJ ._. 
The_AT second_MD ace_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT country_NN1 's_GE near-monopoly_NN1 of_IO traditional_JJ traffic-free_JJ villages_NN2 or_CC what_DDQ pass_VV0 for_IF traffic-free_JJ villages_NN2 in_II these_DD2 days_NNT2 of_IO electric_JJ taxis_NN2 and_CC buses_NN2 ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ from_II these_DD2 villages_NN2 and_CC their_APPGE ski_NN1 areas_NN2 that_CST the_AT most_RGT impressive_JJ mountain_NN1 scenery_NN1 is_VBZ to_TO be_VBI seen_VVN ._. 
The_AT famous_JJ trio_NN1 of_IO Eiger_NP1 ,_, Monch_NP1 and_CC Jungfrau_NP1 loom_NN1 over_II the_AT pistes_NN2 of_IO tiny_JJ British-dominated_JJ Wengen_NN1 ,_, and_CC are_VBR seen_VVN to_II even_RR better_JJR advantage_NN1 from_II even_RR tinier_JJR Murren_NN1 (_( the_AT one_MC1 resort_NN1 which_DDQ genuinely_RR is_VBZ traffic-free_JJ )_) ._. 
Money-dominated_JJ Zermatt_NN1 is_VBZ synonymous_JJ with_IW the_AT unreal_JJ pyramid_NN1 of_IO the_AT Matterhorn_NP1 (_( which_DDQ is_VBZ unrecognisably_RR ordinary_JJ when_CS seen_VVN from_II Italian_JJ Cervinia_NP1 ,_, next_MD door_NN1 )_) ._. 
The_AT peaks_NN2 surrounding_VVG glacier-dominated_JJ Saas_NP2 Fee_NN1 may_VM be_VBI less_RGR distinguished_JJ ,_, but_CCB the_AT ice-falls_NN2 of_IO the_AT Feegletscher_NN1 hanging_VVG over_II the_AT village_NN1 are_VBR in_II their_APPGE way_NN1 just_RR as_RG striking_JJ ._. 
Of_RR21 course_RR22 ,_, we_PPIS2 must_VM not_XX forget_VVI that_CST these_DD2 are_VBR ski_NN1 resorts_NN2 ._. 
Wengen_NP1 's_GE skiing_NN1 is_VBZ extensive_JJ ,_, but_II21 for_II22 piste_NN1 skiers_NN2 is_VBZ mostly_RR easy_JJ ;_; Murren_NP1 is_VBZ very_RG limited_JJ ,_, with_IW one_MC1 spectacular_JJ descent_NN1 from_II the_AT famous_JJ Schilthorn_NN1 ;_; Zermatt_NP1 has_VHZ something_PN1 for_IF everyone_PN1 and_CC lots_PN for_IF experts_NN2 ,_, but_CCB to_TO reach_VVI its_APPGE full_JJ potential_NN1 needs_VVZ better_JJR snow_NN1 than_CSN it_PPH1 often_RR receives_VVZ ;_; Saas_NP2 Fee_NN1 has_VHZ an_AT1 excellent_JJ glacier_NN1 ,_, but_CCB again_RT needs_VVZ abundant_JJ snow_NN1 to_TO provide_VVI much_DA1 more_DAR than_CSN that_DD1 in_RR21 particular_RR22 ,_, to_TO satisfy_VVI better_JJR skiers_NN2 ._. 
But_CCB the_AT quality_NN1 and_CC quantity_NN1 of_IO the_AT skiing_NN1 to_TO be_VBI done_VDN in_II these_DD2 places_NN2 is_VBZ almost_RR a_AT1 secondary_JJ consideration_NN1 ._. 
Perhaps_RR that_DD1 explains_VVZ why_RRQ most_DAT British_JJ skiers_NN2 are_VBR n't_XX inclined_JJ to_TO go_VVI to_II Switzerland_NP1 and_CC why_RRQ a_AT1 minority_NN1 would_VM n't_XX dream_VVI of_IO going_VVG anywhere_RL else_RR ._. 
Skiing_NN1 Update_NN1 :_: Runway_NN1 enterprise_NN1 By_II CHRIS_NP1 GILL_NP1 EXETER-BASED_JJ InStyle_NN1 Holidays_NN2 (_( 0392_MC 70131_MC )_) has_VHZ displayed_VVN enterprise_NN1 in_II flying_VVG from_II little-used_JJ airports_NN2 in_II Britain_NP1 to_II little-used_JJ airports_NN2 in_II the_AT Alps_NP2 ,_, using_VVG small_JJ propeller_NN1 aircraft_NN ._. 
Their_APPGE six_MC resorts_NN2 in_II France_NP1 are_VBR served_VVN by_II flights_NN2 from_II Plymouth_NP1 ,_, Exeter_NP1 and_CC London_NP1 City_NN1 to_II Chambery_NP1 ,_, their_APPGE three_MC resorts_NN2 in_II Austria_NP1 from_II Exeter_NP1 and_CC Bristol_NP1 to_II Innsbruck_NP1 ._. 
Skiing_NN1 Update_NN1 :_: Letters_NN2 ,_, pray_VV0 By_II CHRIS_NP1 GILL_NP1 OVER_II coming_VVG weeks_NNT2 ,_, this_DD1 page_NN1 will_VM cover_VVI subjects_NN2 on_II which_DDQ we_PPIS2 'd_VM like_VVI to_TO hear_VVI from_II readers_NN2 ._. 
First_MD ,_, ski-guiding_JJ now_RT widely_RR offered_VVN by_II tour_NN1 operators_NN2 ._. 
Is_VBZ it_PPH1 the_AT valuable_JJ service_NN1 it_PPH1 's_VBZ made_VVN out_RP to_TO be_VBI ?_? 
Then_RT ,_, skiing_VVG with_IW young_JJ children_NN2 ._. 
If_CS you_PPY 've_VH0 done_VDN it_PPH1 ,_, what_DDQ lessons_NN2 could_VM you_PPY pass_VVI to_II those_DD2 who_PNQS have_VH0 not_XX ?_? 
Finally_RR ,_, chalet_NN1 holidays_NN2 ,_, and_CC in_RR21 particular_RR22 upmarket_JJ ones_NN2 :_: are_VBR they_PPHS2 worth_II the_AT extra_JJ cost_NN1 ?_? 
Write_VV0 to_II Chris_NP1 Gill_NP1 ,_, The_AT Old_JJ Forge_NN1 ,_, Norton_NP1 St_NNL1 Philip_NP1 ,_, Bath_NP1 BA3_FO 6LW_FO ._. 
The_AT most_RGT stimulating_JJ letter_NN1 on_II each_DD1 topic_NN1 wins_VVZ The_AT Good_JJ Skiing_NN1 Guide_NN1 ._. 
Skiing_NN1 Update_NN1 :_: French_JJ lesson_NN1 By_II CHRIS_NP1 GILL_NP1 IT_NN1 IS_VBZ always_RR worth_II timing_NN1 visits_NN2 to_II the_AT French_JJ Alps_NP2 to_TO avoid_VVI French_JJ school_NN1 holidays_NN2 ._. 
This_DD1 season_NNT1 ,_, according_II21 to_II22 Chamonix_NP1 tourist_NN1 office_NN1 ,_, the_AT peak_NN1 period_NN1 will_VM be_VBI 14-25_MCMC February_NPM1 ,_, when_CS schools_NN2 in_II two_MC of_IO the_AT three_MC national_JJ zones_NN2 will_VM have_VHI broken_VVN up_RP ._. 
The_AT churches_NN2 built_VVN on_II wool_NN1 :_: Angela_NP1 Lambert_NP1 enjoys_VVZ the_AT riches_NN2 at_II the_AT heart_NN1 of_IO East_NP1 Anglia_NP1 By_II ANGELA_NP1 LAMBERT_NP1 UNTIL_II six_MC or_CC seven_MC years_NNT2 ago_RA ,_, outsiders_NN2 associated_VVN East_NP1 Anglia_NP1 with_IW fens_NN2 ,_, flatness_NN1 and_CC the_AT vanished_JJ Edwardian_JJ nannies_NN2 of_IO Frinton_NP1 ._. 
Its_APPGE old_JJ churches_NN2 ,_, green_JJ fields_NN2 and_CC long_JJ beaches_NN2 were_VBDR cherished_VVN by_II the_AT inhabitants_NN2 of_IO Essex_NP1 ,_, Suffolk_NP1 ,_, Norfolk_NP1 and_CC Cambridgeshire_NP1 ,_, but_CCB not_XX yet_RR on_II the_AT tourist_NN1 agenda_NN1 ._. 
Today_RT ,_, I_PPIS1 was_VBDZ told_VVN ,_, villagers_NN2 living_VVG around_II the_AT great_JJ wool_NN1 churches_NN2 of_IO Lavenham_NP1 and_CC Long_NP1 Melford_NP1 have_VH0 to_TO bar_VVI their_APPGE doors_NN2 and_CC ignore_VVI the_AT knocking_NN1 of_IO tourists_NN2 ,_, who_PNQS take_VV0 them_PPHO2 for_IF antique_JJ shops_NN2 and_CC offer_VV0 to_TO buy_VVI their_APPGE furniture_NN1 ._. 
The_AT tourists_NN2 are_VBR right_JJ ._. 
East_NP1 Anglia_NP1 on_II a_AT1 sunny_JJ weekend_NNT1 is_VBZ a_AT1 place_NN1 of_IO matchless_JJ beauty_NN1 ._. 
Its_APPGE villages_NN2 look_VV0 too_RG good_JJ to_TO be_VBI true_JJ ._. 
Lavenham_NP1 and_CC Long_NP1 Melford_NP1 ,_, for_REX21 example_REX22 ,_, have_VH0 no_AT telegraph_NN1 poles_NN2 ,_, to_TO preserve_VVI the_AT timeless_JJ air_NN1 that_CST pervades_VVZ them_PPHO2 ._. 
Yet_RR you_PPY only_RR have_VH0 to_TO read_VVI Ronald_NP1 Blythe_NP1 's_GE Akenfield_NN1 to_TO realise_VVI that_CST these_DD2 picturesque_JJ ,_, half-timbered_JJ cottages_NN2 ,_, often_RR painted_VVN the_AT characteristic_JJ Essex_NP1 pink_JJ (_( pale_JJ salmon_NN )_) ,_, ochre_JJ or_CC spring-leaf_JJ green_NN1 ,_, are_VBR more_RGR prosperous_JJ now_RT than_CSN ever_RR in_II the_AT '_GE real_JJ '_GE past_NN1 ._. 
Many_DA2 are_VBR still_RR elaborately_RR decorated_VVN with_IW pargeting_VVG ,_, an_AT1 ornate_JJ ,_, patterned_JJ plasterwork_NN1 practised_VVN in_II this_DD1 area_NN1 since_CS the_AT early_JJ thirteenth_MD century_NNT1 ._. 
Most_DAT of_IO East_NP1 Anglia_NP1 's_GE prosperity_NN1 today_RT is_VBZ due_II21 to_II22 City_NN1 commuters_NN2 ,_, the_AT second-homes_NN2 market_VV0 and_CC tourism_NN1 ._. 
The_AT ideal_JJ hotel_NN1 from_II which_DDQ to_TO explore_VVI is_VBZ Dedham_NP1 Hall_NN1 ,_, set_VVN among_II tall_JJ trees_NN2 in_II the_AT Vale_NN1 of_IO Dedham_NP1 ,_, looking_VVG directly_RR across_RL towards_II Dedham_NP1 church_NN1 on_II one_MC1 side_NN1 and_CC Flatford_NP1 Mill_NN1 on_II the_AT other_JJ :_: both_RR painted_VVN by_II Constable_NP1 ._. 
The_AT hotel_NN1 lies_VVZ in_II five_MC acres_NNU2 of_IO fields_NN2 and_CC garden_NN1 ,_, and_CC the_AT Slingos_NN2 ,_, who_PNQS own_VV0 it_PPH1 ,_, make_VV0 the_AT most_DAT of_IO their_APPGE beautiful_JJ surroundings_NN2 by_II running_JJ painting_NN1 courses_NN2 for_IF about_RG 200_MC a_AT1 week_NNT1 (_( including_II breakfast_NN1 and_CC dinner_NN1 )_) ,_, or_CC 90_MC for_IF a_AT1 long_JJ weekend_NNT1 ._. 
These_DD2 are_VBR so_RG popular_JJ that_CST you_PPY will_VM need_VVI to_II book_NN1 at_RR21 least_RR22 a_AT1 couple_NN1 of_IO months_NNT2 in_II advance_NN1 ._. 
The_AT other_JJ great_JJ joy_NN1 of_IO Dedham_NP1 Hall_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT food_NN1 ._. 
The_AT Slingos_NN2 have_VH0 their_APPGE own_DA vegetable_NN1 garden_NN1 ,_, chickens_NN2 ,_, ducks_NN2 ,_, sheep_NN and_CC cows_NN2 ._. 
Everything_PN1 is_VBZ home-grown_JJ ,_, home-made_JJ and_CC fresh_JJ :_: it_PPH1 tastes_VVZ like_II forgotten_JJ food_NN1 ._. 
If_CS Dedham_NP1 Hall_NN1 is_VBZ fully_RR booked_VVN and_CC it_PPH1 may_VM well_RR be_VBI try_NN1 the_AT best_JJT bed-and-breakfast_NN1 we_PPIS2 have_VH0 ever_RR found_VVN ,_, just_RR a_AT1 few_DA2 miles_NNU2 away_RL at_II the_AT Old_JJ Vicarage_NN1 ,_, Higham_NP1 ,_, near_II Colchester_NP1 ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ a_AT1 rambling_JJ Tudor_NP1 house_NN1 run_VVN by_II John_NP1 and_CC Margaret_NP1 Parker_NP1 ,_, whose_DDQGE breakfast_NN1 room_NN1 and_CC drawing_NN1 room_NN1 look_VV0 out_RP over_II a_AT1 wonderful_JJ walled_JJ garden_NN1 ,_, beyond_II which_DDQ fields_NN2 of_IO grazing_JJ cows_NN2 stretch_VV0 down_RP to_II the_AT river_NN1 ._. 
Another_DD1 hotel_NN1 that_CST would_VM make_VVI a_AT1 good_JJ starting_NN1 point_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 weekend_NNT1 or_CC longer_RRR in_II East_NP1 Anglia_NP1 is_VBZ the_AT Black_JJ Lion_NN1 at_II Long_NP1 Melford_NP1 ._. 
It_PPH1 changed_VVD hands_NN2 recently_RR and_CC is_VBZ now_RT run_VVN by_II Stephen_NP1 and_CC Janet_NP1 Errington_NP1 ._. 
After_CS dinner_NN1 there_RL ,_, when_CS the_AT moon_NN1 was_VBDZ full_JJ and_CC low_JJ and_CC deep_JJ orange_NN1 ,_, we_PPIS2 walked_VVD up_II the_AT road_NN1 from_II the_AT hotel_NN1 to_II Long_NP1 Melford_NP1 church_NN1 ._. 
Its_APPGE vast_JJ walls_NN2 of_IO flint_NN1 and_CC glass_NN1 and_CC Gothic_JJ tracery_NN1 were_VBDR brilliantly_RR floodlit_JJ and_CC the_AT churchyard_NN1 cat_NN1 ,_, sleek_JJ and_CC black_JJ as_CSA tar_NN1 ,_, greeted_VVD us_PPIO2 querulously_RR and_CC led_VVD us_PPIO2 right_RR round_II the_AT church_NN1 and_CC through_II the_AT gravestones_NN2 at_II the_AT back_NN1 ,_, glimmering_VVG and_CC pale_JJ in_II the_AT moonlight_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 were_VBDR quite_RG alone_JJ and_CC the_AT great_JJ church_NN1 ,_, the_AT size_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 cathedral_NN1 ,_, was_VBDZ unearthly_JJ in_II its_APPGE floodlit_JJ ,_, moonlit_JJ beauty_NN1 ._. 
Long_NP1 Melford_NP1 is_VBZ one_MC1 of_IO the_AT wool_NN1 churches_NN2 that_CST commemorate_VV0 the_AT wealth_NN1 of_IO East_NP1 Anglia_NP1 in_II the_AT fifteenth_MD and_CC sixteenth_MD centuries_NNT2 ._. 
Another_DD1 is_VBZ at_II Lavenham_NP1 ,_, 10_MC minutes_NNT2 '_GE drive_NN1 up_II the_AT road_NN1 ._. 
Just_RR inside_II the_AT front_JJ porch_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 handwritten_JJ book_NN1 is_VBZ prefaced_VVN with_IW the_AT words_NN2 '_GE This_DD1 book_NN1 has_VHZ been_VBN compiled_VVN that_CST something_PN1 ,_, more_RRR than_CSN their_APPGE mere_JJ names_NN2 ,_, may_VM be_VBI known_VVN of_IO the_AT Lavenham_NP1 men_NN2 who_PNQS gave_VVD their_APPGE lives_NN2 for_IF their_APPGE country_NN1 in_II the_AT Great_JJ War_NN1 ._. 
'_" This_DD1 is_VBZ followed_VVN by_II 50_MC or_CC so_RR names_NN2 ,_, each_DD1 with_IW a_AT1 description_NN1 ._. 
The_AT much-thumbed_JJ book_NN1 is_VBZ deeply_RR moving_VVG ,_, and_CC sets_VVZ the_AT tone_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 walk_NN1 round_II this_DD1 glorious_JJ building_NN1 ,_, which_DDQ has_VHZ seen_VVN the_AT christenings_NN2 ,_, marriages_NN2 and_CC burials_NN2 of_IO the_AT folk_NN of_IO the_AT village_NN1 for_IF more_DAR than_CSN 600_MC years_NNT2 ._. 
East_NP1 Anglia_NP1 is_VBZ exceptionally_RR rich_JJ in_II churches_NN2 and_CC cathedrals_NN2 ._. 
There_EX are_VBR several_DA2 splendid_JJ houses_NN2 near_II Long_NP1 Melford_NP1 that_CST would_VM make_VVI for_IF a_AT1 gentle_JJ afternoon_NNT1 's_GE potter_NN1 through_II the_AT rooms_NN2 and_CC possessions_NN2 of_IO the_AT rich_JJ of_IO a_AT1 few_DA2 centuries_NNT2 ago_RA ._. 
The_AT loveliest_JJT ,_, to_II my_APPGE mind_NN1 ,_, is_VBZ Melford_NP1 Hall_NN1 ,_, whose_DDQGE charming_JJ ,_, octagonal_JJ Jacobean_JJ gatehouse_NN1 is_VBZ reached_VVN along_II an_AT1 avenue_NN1 of_IO clipped_JJ yew_NN1 trees_NN2 and_CC ,_, with_IW its_APPGE high_JJ windows_NN2 flooding_VVG the_AT octagon_NN1 with_IW light_NN1 ,_, is_VBZ my_APPGE fantasy_NN1 of_IO the_AT ideal_JJ study_NN1 ._. 
Lavenham_NP1 is_VBZ often_RR called_VVN the_AT finest_JJT medieval_JJ village_NN1 in_II England_NP1 ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ an_AT1 image_NN1 of_IO the_AT world_NN1 we_PPIS2 have_VH0 lost_VVN ,_, its_APPGE gently_RR sloping_JJ streets_NN2 converging_VVG upon_II the_AT market_NN1 place_NN1 ._. 
Here_RL stand_VV0 the_AT early_JJ sixteenth-century_JJ timbered_VVD Guildhall_NP1 ,_, now_RT a_AT1 museum_NN1 to_II 700_MC years_NNT2 of_IO the_AT cloth_NN1 industry_NN1 ._. 
Next_II21 to_II22 it_PPH1 is_VBZ The_AT Little_JJ Hall_NN1 ,_, dating_VVG from_II the_AT fourteenth_MD century_NNT1 ,_, with_IW its_APPGE floorboards_NN2 gleaming_VVG with_IW the_AT patina_NN1 of_IO age_NN1 ,_, low-beamed_JJ ceilings_NN2 and_CC a_AT1 tiny_JJ ,_, unruly_JJ ,_, charming_JJ walled_JJ garden_NN1 ._. 
Precisely_RR next_MD door_NN1 to_II this_DD1 is_VBZ a_AT1 restaurant_NN1 called_VVN The_AT Great_JJ House_NN1 ._. 
Here_RL ,_, in_II the_AT cool_JJ ,_, pretty_JJ setting_NN1 of_IO the_AT dining_NN1 room_NN1 that_CST was_VBDZ once_RR Stephen_NP1 Spender_NP1 's_GE ,_, you_PPY will_VM be_VBI served_VVN an_AT1 exquisite_JJ three-course_JJ lunch_NN1 for_IF 9.50_MC ,_, 6_MC for_IF children_NN2 ._. 
The_AT wine_NN1 list_NN1 is_VBZ small_JJ but_CCB perfectly_RR chosen_VVN ._. 
The_AT service_NN1 is_VBZ impeccable_JJ ._. 
East_NP1 Anglia_NP1 has_VHZ bookshops_NN2 filled_VVN with_IW titles_NN2 like_II 101_MC Things_NN2 For_IF A_AT1 Boy_NN1 To_TO Do_VDI ..._... 
Constable_NN1 landscapes_NN2 ..._... 
Gainsborough_NP1 's_GE house_NN1 ..._... to_TO say_VVI nothing_PN1 of_IO huge_JJ grey_JJ sweeps_NN2 of_IO empty_JJ beach_NN1 from_II which_DDQ ,_, at_II Aldeburgh_NP1 ,_, you_PPY can_VM buy_VVI goggle-eyed_JJ skate_NN1 direct_JJ from_II the_AT fishing_NN1 boats_NN2 as_CSA they_PPHS2 come_VV0 out_II21 of_II22 the_AT water_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 has_VHZ Colchester_NP1 oysters_NN2 ._. 
It_PPH1 has_VHZ Ely_NP1 Cathedral_NN1 ,_, its_APPGE great_JJ green_JJ windows_NN2 casting_VVG a_AT1 translucent_JJ light_NN1 across_II the_AT Lady_NN1 Chapel_NN1 ._. 
With_IW all_DB this_DD1 ,_, small_JJ wonder_NN1 it_PPH1 also_RR has_VHZ tourists_NN2 ._. 
Sore_JJ pedal_NN1 push_VV0 to_II the_AT pagodas_NN2 :_: A_AT1 mountain_NN1 bike_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT perfect_JJ way_NN1 to_TO explore_VVI the_AT byways_NN2 of_IO Nepal_NP1 ,_, says_VVZ David_NP1 Reed_NP1 By_II DAVID_NP1 REED_NP1 THE_AT FIRST_MD thing_NN1 to_TO do_VDI in_II Kathmandu_NP1 is_VBZ dump_NN1 your_APPGE bags_NN2 and_CC hire_VV0 a_AT1 bike_NN1 ._. 
A_AT1 bicycle_NN1 is_VBZ to_II the_AT medieval_JJ streets_NN2 of_IO Nepal_NP1 what_DDQ a_AT1 convertible_NN1 is_VBZ to_II a_AT1 California_NP1 freeway_NN1 :_: appropriate_JJ technology_NN1 ._. 
Until_II recently_RR ,_, Nepal_NP1 knew_VVD only_RR one_MC1 brand_NN1 ,_, the_AT Hero_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 clunky_JJ steel_NN1 one-speeder_NN1 ._. 
Now_RT ,_, Kathmandu_NP1 has_VHZ discovered_VVN mountain_NN1 bikes_NN2 ._. 
They_PPHS2 're_VBR everywhere_RL ,_, not_XX just_RR in_II the_AT capital_NN1 but_CCB exploring_VVG crannies_NN2 where_RRQ no_AT other_JJ form_NN1 of_IO transport_NN1 will_VM go_VVI ._. 
A_AT1 mountain_NN1 bike_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT perfect_JJ touring_NN1 vehicle_NN1 for_IF Nepal_NP1 's_GE roads_NN2 ,_, which_DDQ in_II recent_JJ years_NNT2 have_VH0 deteriorated_VVN badly_RR ._. 
After_CS this_DD1 summer_NNT1 's_GE monsoon_NN1 ,_, the_AT Kathmandu-Pokhara_NP1 highway_NN1 (_( the_AT country_NN1 's_GE most_RGT popular_JJ tourist_NN1 route_NN1 )_) probably_RR looks_VVZ like_II a_AT1 donkey_NN1 track_NN1 ._. 
A_AT1 serious_JJ petrol_NN1 shortage_NN1 is_VBZ only_RR making_VVG things_NN2 worse_JJR bus_NN1 travel_NN1 ,_, crowded_VVD at_II the_AT best_JJT of_IO times_NNT2 ,_, is_VBZ now_RT cruel_JJ and_CC inhumane_JJ ._. 
I_PPIS1 joined_VVD a_AT1 group_NN1 going_VVG to_II Nagarkot_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 hilltop_NN1 resort_NN1 on_II the_AT rim_NN1 of_IO the_AT Kathmandu_NP1 valley_NN1 ._. 
Organised_VVN by_II Kathmandu_NP1 's_GE only_JJ cycle_NN1 tour_NN1 operator_NN1 ,_, the_AT trip_NN1 was_VBDZ n't_XX too_RG long_JJ or_CC demanding_VVG ,_, and_CC was_VBDZ designed_VVN to_TO introduce_VVI Nepalese_JJ culture_NN1 ,_, history_NN1 and_CC (_( in_II theory_NN1 ,_, anyway_RR )_) Himalayan_JJ views_NN2 at_II the_AT top_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 were_VBDR a_AT1 group_NN1 of_IO eight_MC Australians_NN2 and_CC Americans_NN2 ,_, led_VVN by_II a_AT1 former_DA Atlanta_NP1 debutante_NN1 named_VVD Frances_NP1 Higgins_NP1 ._. 
She_PPHS1 'd_VM come_VVI to_II Nepal_NP1 with_IW a_AT1 back-pack_NN1 three_MC years_NNT2 earlier_RRR and_CC ended_VVD up_RP marrying_VVG the_AT US_NP1 embassy_NN1 dentist_NN1 ._. 
After_CS a_AT1 ritual_JJ distribution_NN1 of_IO chocolate_NN1 and_CC biscuits_NN2 they_PPHS2 came_VVD in_RP handy_JJ later_RRR we_PPIS2 wheeled_VVD out_II21 of_II22 the_AT Kathmandu_NP1 Guest_NN1 House_NN1 and_CC into_II the_AT demolition_NN1 derby_NN1 of_IO old_JJ Kathmandu_NP1 ._. 
Pedestrians_NN2 were_VBDR the_AT main_JJ hazard_NN1 ,_, but_CCB rickshaws_VVZ ,_, curio_NN1 sellers_NN2 ,_, money-changers_NN2 and_CC the_AT odd_JJ sacred_JJ cow_NN1 also_RR had_VHN to_TO be_VBI manoeuvred_VVN around_RP ._. 
And_CC the_AT bumps_NN2 ._. 
I_PPIS1 quickly_RR found_VVD that_DD1 mountain_NN1 bikes_NN2 do_VD0 n't_XX particularly_RR spare_VVI you_PPY the_AT bumps_NN2 ._. 
We_PPIS2 pedalled_VVD eastwards_RL ,_, first_MD past_II the_AT new_JJ Royal_JJ Palace_NN1 a_AT1 weird_JJ ,_, menacing_JJ building_NN1 with_IW bats_NN2 hanging_VVG in_II the_AT trees_NN2 like_II handbags_NN2 and_CC on_II21 to_II22 the_AT great_JJ domed_JJ stupa_NN1 ,_, or_CC Buddhist_JJ monument_NN1 ,_, of_IO Bodnath_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 was_VBDZ Buddha_NP1 's_GE birthday_NN1 ._. 
An_AT1 army_NN1 of_IO beggars_NN2 and_CC lepers_NN2 had_VHD turned_VVN out_RP ,_, each_DD1 crouched_VVD behind_II a_AT1 cloth_NN1 heaped_VVD with_IW rice_NN1 grains_NN2 and_CC coins_NN2 ._. 
For_IF pilgrims_NN2 ,_, the_AT ritual_JJ prostrations_NN2 and_CC prayer-wheel-spinning_NN1 were_VBDR out_II21 of_II22 the_AT question_NN1 ,_, because_CS beggars_NN2 blocked_VVD the_AT shrine_NN1 ._. 
Once_RR out_II21 of_II22 Kathmandu_NP1 we_PPIS2 started_VVD getting_VVG long_RR stares_VVZ from_II villagers_NN2 ,_, laying_VVG out_RP spring_NN1 wheat_NN1 on_II the_AT road_NN1 to_TO be_VBI threshed_VVN by_II passing_JJ cars_NN2 and_CC carts_NN2 ._. 
I_PPIS1 felt_VVD pretty_RG silly_JJ wearing_VVG a_AT1 plastic_NN1 walnut_NN1 shell_NN1 on_II my_APPGE head_NN1 ._. 
The_AT flashy_JJ gear_NN1 turned_VVD you_PPY ,_, however_RGQV unwillingly_RR ,_, into_II a_AT1 sort_NN1 of_IO pied_JJ piper_NN1 of_IO Western_JJ materialism_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 stopped_VVD in_II Thimi_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 village_NN1 obscurely_RR famous_JJ for_IF a_AT1 type_NN1 of_IO papier_NN121 mache_NN122 mask_NN1 ._. 
An_AT1 instant_JJ crowd_NN1 formed_VVD ,_, mostly_RR children_NN2 ._. 
Two_MC or_CC three_MC pairs_NN2 of_IO hands_NN2 roamed_VVD sensuously_RR over_II the_AT alloy_NN1 frame_NN1 ,_, tentatively_RR flexing_VVG the_AT brakes_NN2 and_CC fiddling_VVG with_IW the_AT gear_NN1 shift_NN1 ._. 
'_" How_RGQ much_DA1 you_PPY pay_VV0 for_IF this_DD1 ?_? '_GE asked_VVD a_AT1 lad_NN1 in_II a_AT1 Michael_NP1 Jackson_NP1 T-shirt_NN1 ,_, hopefully_RR ._. 
I_PPIS1 did_VDD n't_XX buy_VVI any_DD masks_NN2 ,_, but_CCB I_PPIS1 was_VBDZ tempted_VVN by_II the_AT matching_JJ two-foot-high_JJ figurines_NN2 of_IO King_NNB Birendra_NP1 and_CC Queen_NNB Aishwarya_NP1 ._. 
The_AT King_NN1 is_VBZ said_VVN to_TO be_VBI a_AT1 reincarnation_NN1 of_IO the_AT Hindu_JJ god_NN1 Vishnu_NN1 ._. 
Ten_MC miles_NNU2 from_II Kathmandu_NP1 we_PPIS2 pulled_VVD into_II Bhaktapur_NP1 ,_, the_AT best_RRT preserved_VVN of_IO the_AT three_MC ancient_JJ cities_NN2 of_IO the_AT valley_NN1 ._. 
The_AT tall_JJ brick_NN1 houses_NN2 would_VM have_VHI looked_VVN like_II Victorian_JJ mansions_NN2 ,_, except_II21 for_II22 the_AT pagoda_NN1 roofs_NN2 and_CC the_AT intricate_JJ wood_NN1 lattices_NN2 in_II31 place_II32 of_II33 glass_NN1 window_NN1 panes_NN2 ._. 
The_AT alleys_NN2 between_II them_PPHO2 were_VBDR dark_JJ and_CC damp_JJ ,_, rich_JJ with_IW the_AT smell_NN1 of_IO onions_NN2 hung_VVN from_II the_AT eaves_NN2 ._. 
To_TO park_VVI the_AT bikes_NN2 we_PPIS2 had_VHD to_TO strike_VVI a_AT1 deal_NN1 with_IW the_AT children_NN2 in_II the_AT main_JJ square_NN1 ._. 
They_PPHS2 wanted_VVD a_AT1 few_DA2 rupees_NNU2 as_II protection_NN1 money_NN1 a_AT1 common_JJ arrangement_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 lunched_VVD in_II a_AT1 cafe_NN1 overlooking_VVG a_AT1 five-tiered_JJ pagoda_NN1 temple_NN1 ,_, tall_JJ and_CC slender_JJ like_II a_AT1 square_JJ bullet_NN1 ._. 
After_CS Bhaktapur_NP1 ,_, the_AT real_JJ biking_NN1 began_VVD ._. 
As_II the_AT land_NN1 rose_NN1 ,_, the_AT rectangular_JJ paddy_NN1 fields_NN2 gave_VVD way_NN1 to_TO thin_VVI terraces_NN2 that_CST carved_VVD the_AT valley_NN1 into_II steps_NN2 ;_; here_RL and_CC there_RL an_AT1 irrigated_JJ paddy_NN1 glistened_VVD in_II a_AT1 green_JJ crescent_NN1 ._. 
The_AT road_NN1 angled_VVN towards_II the_AT rim_NN1 of_IO the_AT valley_NN1 ,_, climbing_VVG 2,000_MC feet_NN2 in_II eight_MC relentless_JJ miles_NNU2 ._. 
The_AT grade_NN1 was_VBDZ manageable_JJ in_II the_AT lowest_JJT of_IO 18_MC gears_NN2 ,_, but_CCB it_PPH1 was_VBDZ like_II riding_VVG an_AT1 exercise_NN1 cycle_NN1 in_II a_AT1 sauna_NN1 ._. 
The_AT weather_NN1 was_VBDZ fiendishly_RR sticky_JJ ,_, what_DDQ they_PPHS2 call_VV0 the_AT '_GE pre-monsoon_NN1 '_GE ._. 
Clouds_NN2 rose_VVD in_II thin_JJ columns_NN2 up_II the_AT mountain_NN1 sides_NN2 ,_, grey_JJ upon_II grey_JJ ,_, and_CC started_VVD smudging_VVG out_RP the_AT valley_NN1 ._. 
The_AT hilltop_NN1 we_PPIS2 were_VBDR aiming_VVG for_IF looked_VVN like_II an_AT1 angry_JJ volcano_NN1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 asked_VVD Ms_NNB Higgins_NP1 what_DDQ the_AT difference_NN1 was_VBDZ between_II the_AT monsoon_NN1 and_CC the_AT pre-monsoon_NN1 ._. 
'_" Oh_UH ,_, '_GE bout_NN1 two_MC weeks_NNT2 ,_, '_" she_PPHS1 said_VVD from_II behind_II her_APPGE Ray-Ban_NP1 sunglasses_NN2 ._. 
We_PPIS2 climbed_VVD into_II the_AT clouds_NN2 and_CC a_AT1 cooling_JJ drizzle_NN1 began_VVD to_TO fall_VVI ._. 
I_PPIS1 noticed_VVD I_PPIS1 could_VM see_VVI my_APPGE breath_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 kept_VVD spiralling_VVG up_RP towards_II a_AT1 high_JJ point_NN1 on_II the_AT ridge_NN1 ,_, and_CC when_CS we_PPIS2 reached_VVD it_PPH1 there_RL was_VBDZ a_AT1 lodge_NN1 ,_, perched_VVN improbably_RR like_II a_AT1 ski-lift_JJ station_NN1 ._. 
Next_II21 to_II22 it_PPH1 was_VBDZ a_AT1 bamboo_NN1 out-building_NN1 with_IW a_AT1 big_JJ sign_NN1 saying_VVG :_: '_GE The_AT Restaurant_NN1 at_II the_AT End_NN1 of_IO the_AT Universe_NN1 '_GE ._. 
We_PPIS2 sat_VVD there_RL drinking_VVG hot_JJ chocolate_NN1 and_CC watching_VVG the_AT clouds_NN2 scrape_VVI raggedly_RR past_RL ._. 
They_PPHS2 seemed_VVD to_TO be_VBI breaking_VVG up_RP ,_, and_CC to_II the_AT west_ND1 a_AT1 different_JJ valley_NN1 -_- the_AT one_PN1 we_PPIS2 would_VM descend_VVI into_II the_AT next_MD day_NNT1 was_VBDZ filling_VVG with_IW a_AT1 luminous_JJ gold_NN1 haze_NN1 ._. 
But_CCB to_II the_AT north_ND1 ,_, where_CS the_AT main_JJ Himalayan_JJ chain_NN1 should_VM have_VHI loomed_VVN ,_, the_AT curtain_NN1 never_RR parted_VVN ,_, and_CC it_PPH1 was_VBDZ the_AT same_DA story_NN1 in_II the_AT morning_NNT1 ._. 
'_GE Y'all_NN1 should_VM see_VVI this_DD1 place_NN1 in_II the_AT fall_NN1 ,_, '_GE Ms_NNB Higgins_NP1 apologised_VVD ._. 
I_PPIS1 'd_VHD seen_VVN the_AT Himalayas_NP2 in_II the_AT autumn_NNT1 ,_, so_CS I_PPIS1 was_VBDZ able_JK to_TO imagine_VVI them_PPHO2 ._. 
On_II my_APPGE previous_JJ visit_NN1 ,_, at_II dawn_NNT1 ,_, the_AT range_NN1 had_VHD floated_VVN eerily_RR above_II a_AT1 sea_NN1 of_IO fog_NN1 ._. 
At_II sunset_NN1 the_AT slabbish_JJ ,_, orange_JJ peaks_NN2 had_VHD appeared_VVN like_II ghosts_NN2 out_II21 of_II22 the_AT clouds_NN2 and_CC then_RT ,_, in_II less_DAR time_NNT1 than_CSN it_PPH1 took_VVD to_TO wind_VVI on_II a_AT1 camera_NN1 ,_, swirled_VVD away_RL again_RT ._. 
Sore_JJ bottoms_NN2 on_II saddles_NN2 ,_, we_PPIS2 pointed_VVD our_APPGE fat_JJ tyres_NN2 down_II the_AT steep_JJ track_NN1 ._. 
The_AT descent_NN1 was_VBDZ nerve-racking_JJ and_CC it_PPH1 reminded_VVD me_PPIO1 of_IO the_AT slow_JJ ,_, queasy_JJ way_NN1 light_NN1 planes_NN2 come_VV0 in_RP to_TO land_VVI in_II Himalayan_JJ valleys_NN2 ._. 
At_II the_AT first_MD sign_NN1 we_PPIS2 came_VVD to_II ,_, women_NN2 were_VBDR bashing_VVG wheat_NN1 sheaves_VVZ against_II rocks_NN2 and_CC men_NN2 squatted_VVD in_II the_AT dust_NN1 playing_VVG a_AT1 game_NN1 with_IW pebbles_NN2 ._. 
We_PPIS2 were_VBDR back_RP in_II the_AT sultry_JJ heat_NN1 of_IO the_AT valley_NN1 ._. 
FACT_NN1 FILE_NN1 Flights_NN2 :_: Royal_JJ Nepal_NP1 Airlines_NN2 has_VHZ begun_VVN direct_JJ flights_NN2 from_II London_NP1 to_II Kathmandu_NP1 :_: return_VV0 fares_NN2 cost_VV0 520_MC through_II Babin_NP1 Travel_NN1 (_( 01-383_MCMC 4314_MC )_) ._. 
An_AT1 alternative_NN1 is_VBZ Pakistan_NP1 Airlines_NN2 via_II Karachi_NP1 ._. 
Mountain_NN1 bike_NN1 operators_NN2 :_: Himalayan_JJ Mountain_NN1 Bikes_NN2 ,_, located_VVN in_II the_AT courtyard_NN1 of_IO the_AT Kathmandu_NP1 Guest_NN1 House_NN1 ,_, runs_VVZ trips_NN2 all_RR over_II Nepal_NP1 from_II 1_MC1 to_II 13_MC days_NNT2 ,_, with_IW costs_NN2 ranging_VVG from_II $20_NNU to_II $1,940_NNU ;_; the_AT Nagarkot_NN1 trip_NN1 costs_VVZ $80_NNU ._. 
Price_NN1 includes_VVZ everything_PN1 equipment_NN1 ,_, food_NN1 ,_, hotel_NN1 or_CC tent_NN1 and_CC ,_, on_II longer_JJR trips_NN2 ,_, an_AT1 escort_NN1 vehicle_NN1 ._. 
Overnights_NN2 can_VM be_VBI arranged_VVN in_II Kathmandu_NP1 ,_, but_CCB longer_JJR trips_NN2 should_VM be_VBI booked_VVN by_II writing_VVG to_II the_AT company_NN1 at_II PO_NN1 Box_NN1 2769_MC ,_, Kathmandu_NP1 ,_, Nepal_NP1 ._. 
Mountain_NN1 bikes_NN2 can_VM be_VBI hired_VVN for_IF $8_NNU a_AT1 day_NNT1 from_II America_NP1 Nepal_NP1 Mountain_NNL1 Bike_NN1 Rental_NN1 ,_, south_ND1 of_IO the_AT Old_JJ Vienna_NP1 Inn_NN1 in_II Kathmandu_NP1 ._. 
Books_NN2 :_: A_AT1 Guide_NN1 to_II Trekking_VVG in_II Nepal_NP1 by_II Stephen_NP1 Bezruchka_NP1 ,_, The_AT Mountaineers_NN2 ,_, 8.95_MC ._. 
David_NP1 Reed_NP1 is_VBZ also_RR writing_VVG a_AT1 guide_NN1 to_II Nepal_NP1 ._. 
Health_NN1 :_: Hepatitis_NP1 (_( gamma_NN1 globulin_NN1 )_) ,_, typhoid_JJ and_CC Japanese_JJ encephalitis_NN1 jabs_NN2 are_VBR recommended_VVN ;_; malaria_NN1 pills_NN2 may_VM be_VBI advisable_JJ for_IF lowland_NN1 areas_NN2 ._. 
Visas_NN2 :_: 14-day_JJ visas_NN2 ,_, extendable_JJ to_II one_MC1 month_NNT1 ,_, available_JJ on_II entry_NN1 at_II the_AT airport_NN1 ;_; for_IF longer_JJR stays_NN2 ,_, apply_VV0 in_II advance_NN1 to_II the_AT Royal_JJ Nepalese_JJ Embassy_NN1 ,_, 12a_FO Kensington_NP1 Palace_NN1 Gardens_NN2 W8_FO ,_, London_NP1 (_( 01-229_MCMC 1594_MC )_) ._. 
Trekking_VVG permits_NN2 are_VBR necessary_JJ only_RR for_IF off-road_JJ trips_NN2 in_II certain_JJ areas_NN2 ._. 
Maps_NN2 :_: The_AT Schneider_JJR map_NN1 of_IO the_AT Kathmandu_NP1 Valley_NN1 is_VBZ invaluable_JJ ;_; outside_II the_AT valley_NN1 ,_, the_AT Nelles_NP2 map_NN1 of_IO Nepal_NP1 should_VM be_VBI taken_VVN with_IW a_AT1 pinch_NN1 of_IO salt_NN1 ._. 
Trekking_VVG maps_NN2 sold_VVN in_II Nepal_NP1 may_VM prove_VVI useful_JJ ._. 
Tavel_VV0 Update_NN1 :_: Travel_VV0 Top_NN1 Ten_MC By_II DAVID_NP1 REED_NP1 ACCORDING_II21 to_II22 figures_NN2 from_II the_AT English_JJ Tourist_NN1 Board_NN1 ,_, the_AT following_JJ historic_JJ places_NN2 attracted_VVD the_AT most_RGT (_( ticket-paying_NN1 )_) visitors_NN2 in_II 1988_MC ._. 
Tavel_VV0 Update_NN1 :_: Neat_JJ Noel_NP1 By_II DAVID_NP1 REED_NP1 A_ZZ1 THREE-NIGHT_JJ Christmas_NNT1 holiday_NN1 in_II Rouen_NP1 ,_, France_NP1 ,_, at_II the_AT Hotel_NN1 de_NP1 Dieppe_NP1 costs_VVZ 119_MC per_II person_NN1 including_II a_AT1 six-course_JJ dinner_NN1 on_II Christmas_NNT1 Eve_NNT1 -in_NN1 a_AT1 ferry-inclusive_JJ package_NN1 offered_VVN by_II P_ZZ1 &amp;_CC O_ZZ1 European_JJ Ferries_NN2 (_( 0705_MC 772233_MC )_) ._. 
The_AT winter_NNT1 Short_NP1 Trips_VVZ to_II the_AT Continent_NN1 brochure_NN1 also_RR offers_VVZ pre-Christmas_JJ shopping_NN1 trips_NN2 from_II Portsmouth_NP1 to_II Le_NP1 Havre_NP1 ,_, or_CC Cherbourg_NP1 ,_, from_II 50_MC return_VV0 for_IF a_AT1 car_NN1 and_CC four_MC passengers_NN2 ._. 
Tavel_VV0 Update_NN1 :_: Credit_NN1 caution_NN1 By_II DAVID_NP1 REED_NP1 IF_CS YOU_PPY buy_VV0 air_NN1 tickets_NN2 by_II telephone_NN1 ,_, be_VBI very_RG careful_JJ about_II giving_VVG your_APPGE credit_NN1 card_NN1 number_NN1 ._. 
David_NP1 Rundle_NN1 of_IO Slough_NP1 rang_VVD a_AT1 London_NP1 agency_NN1 ,_, seeking_VVG a_AT1 return_JJ seat-only_JJ deal_NN1 to_II Athens_NP1 ._. 
The_AT agent_NN1 was_VBDZ able_JK to_TO offer_VVI a_AT1 ticket_NN1 and_CC quoted_VVD a_AT1 fare_NN1 of_IO 153_MC ._. 
'_" I_PPIS1 said_VVD I_PPIS1 was_VBDZ very_RG interested_JJ and_CC gave_VVD my_APPGE credit_NN1 card_NN1 number_NN1 as_CSA requested_VVN ._. 
'_GE The_AT agent_NN1 told_VVD Mr_NNB Rundle_NP1 that_CST she_PPHS1 had_VHD to_TO check_VVI his_58 '_GE card_NN1 rating_NN1 '_GE and_CC put_VVD him_PPHO1 on_II hold_NN1 to_II the_AT accompaniment_NN1 of_IO taped_JJ music_NN1 ._. 
'_" This_DD1 played_VVD for_IF at_RR21 least_RR22 10_MC minutes_NNT2 and_CC finished_VVD and_CC the_AT phone_NN1 went_VVD dead_JJ ._. 
I_PPIS1 rang_VVD again_RT and_CC the_AT agent_NN1 said_VVD she_PPHS1 thought_VVD I_PPIS1 'd_VM put_VVI the_AT phone_NN1 down_RP ._. 
'_" He_PPHS1 said_VVD that_CST he_PPHS1 had_VHD n't_XX ,_, and_CC he_PPHS1 was_VBDZ put_VVN on_II hold_NN1 again_RT and_CC again_RT the_AT phone_NN1 went_VVD dead_JJ ._. 
'_GE By_II this_DD1 time_NNT1 I_PPIS1 had_VHD waited_VVN about_RG 15_MC minutes_NNT2 hanging_VVG on_RP the_AT phone_NN1 and_CC the_AT clerk_NN1 had_VHD not_XX confirmed_VVN any_DD booking_NN1 ._. 
'_" His_APPGE patience_NN1 exhausted_VVN ,_, he_PPHS1 called_VVD another_DD1 agent_NN1 and_CC booked_VVN a_AT1 dearer_JJR ticket_NN1 ._. 
He_PPHS1 was_VBDZ surprised_JJ to_TO receive_VVI shortly_RR afterwards_RT an_AT1 invoice_NN1 from_II the_AT first_MD agency_NN1 informing_VVG him_PPHO1 that_CST his_APPGE Visa_NN1 account_NN1 had_VHD been_VBN debited_VVN for_IF 153_MC for_IF tickets_NN2 he_PPHS1 did_VDD n't_XX know_VVI he_PPHS1 had_VHD bought_VVN ._. 
The_AT second_MD agency_NN1 had_VHD warned_VVN him_PPHO1 he_PPHS1 was_VBDZ entering_VVG into_II a_AT1 contract_NN1 by_II giving_VVG his_APPGE credit_NN1 card_NN1 number_NN1 ._. 
He_PPHS1 demanded_VVD a_AT1 refund_NN1 from_II the_AT first_MD agents_NN2 but_CCB they_PPHS2 refused_VVD ,_, arguing_VVG that_CST because_CS he_PPHS1 had_VHD given_VVN them_PPHO2 his_APPGE credit_NN1 card_NN1 number_NN1 he_PPHS1 had_VHD entered_VVN into_II a_AT1 contract_NN1 ._. 
Mr_NNB Rundle_NP1 took_VVD his_APPGE case_NN1 to_TO Save_VV0 &amp;_CC Prosper_VV0 who_PNQS issued_VVD his_APPGE Visa_NN1 card_NN1 ._. 
On_II investigation_NN1 ,_, they_PPHS2 discovered_VVD that_CST the_AT first_MD agency_NN1 had_VHD failed_VVN to_TO get_VVI proper_JJ authorisation_NN1 from_II Visa_NN1 for_IF the_AT transaction_NN1 ._. 
According_II21 to_II22 Ian_NP1 Lindsey_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 director_NN1 of_IO Save_VV0 &amp;_CC Prosper_VV0 ,_, if_CS the_AT agency_NN1 had_VHD obtained_VVN authorisation_NN1 there_RL is_58 '_GE no_AT way_NN1 '_GE Mr_NNB Rundle_NP1 could_VM have_VHI received_VVN a_AT1 refund_NN1 ._. 
'_GE Never_RR ,_, ever_RR give_VV0 out_RP your_APPGE card_NN1 number_NN1 until_CS you_PPY have_VH0 reached_VVN agreement_NN1 ,_, '_GE Mr_NNB Lindsey_NP1 said_VVD ._. 
Medieval_JJ bridge-builders_NN2 to_II tourists_NN2 :_: Hilly_JJ Janes_NP2 found_VVD Bruges_NP1 full_JJ of_IO foreign_JJ hordes_NN2 and_CC historical_JJ haunts_NN2 By_II HILLY_JJ JANES_NP2 The_AT first_MD thing_NN1 the_AT lady_NN1 in_II the_AT hotel_NN1 pointed_VVD out_RP when_CS she_PPHS1 showed_VVD us_PPIO2 our_APPGE room_NN1 overlooking_VVG the_AT canal_NN1 was_VBDZ an_AT1 electric_JJ mosquito_NN1 killer_NN1 ._. 
'_GE Infested_JJ with_IW tourists_NN2 and_CC mosquitoes_NN2 '_GE the_AT verdict_NN1 of_IO some_DD friends_NN2 who_PNQS had_VHD spent_VVN a_AT1 weekend_NNT1 in_II '_GE the_AT Venice_NP1 of_IO the_AT North_ND1 '_" earlier_RRR in_II the_AT summer_NNT1 flashed_VVD through_II my_APPGE mind_NN1 ._. 
Fortunately_RR ,_, in_II the_AT cooler_JJR weather_NN1 of_IO late_JJ September_NPM1 ,_, the_AT scarlet_JJ geraniums_NN2 in_II the_AT window-boxes_NN2 were_VBDR still_RR in_II bloom_NN1 ,_, but_CCB the_AT mosquitoes_NN2 seemed_VVD to_TO have_VHI wilted_VVN ._. 
Not_XX so_RR the_AT human_JJ swarm_NN1 ._. 
If_CS you_PPY perceive_VV0 yourself_PPX1 as_II a_AT1 traveller_NN1 rather_II21 than_II22 a_AT1 tourist_NN1 ,_, read_VVD no_AT further_RRR ._. 
If_CS walking_VVG down_RP streets_NN2 teeming_JJ with_IW non-residents_NN2 induces_VVZ mild_JJ panic_NN1 ,_, or_CC if_CS it_PPH1 strikes_VVZ you_PPY as_RG undignified_JJ to_TO whizz_VVI around_RP a_AT1 museum_NN1 in_II 10_MC minutes_NNT2 ,_, because_CS entry_NN1 is_VBZ part_NN1 of_IO the_AT combination_NN1 ticket_NN1 you_PPY have_VH0 bought_VVN from_II the_AT tourist_NN1 office_NN1 ,_, then_RT forget_VV0 Bruges_NP1 ._. 
You_PPY would_VM be_VBI better_RRR spending_VVG a_AT1 weekend_NNT1 in_II Antwerp_NP1 ,_, about_RG 15_MC miles_NNU2 to_II the_AT east_ND1 ,_, less_RGR well_RR preserved_VVN architecturally_RR but_CCB with_IW more_RGR comprehensive_JJ museums_NN2 and_CC galleries_NN2 ,_, and_CC much_RR more_RRR the_AT feel_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 '_GE real_JJ '_GE town_NN1 ._. 
Almost_RR entirely_RR surrounded_VVN by_II a_AT1 circle_NN1 of_IO water_NN1 that_CST formed_VVD part_NN1 of_IO the_AT original_JJ fortifications_NN2 ,_, and_CC still_RR linked_VVN to_II its_APPGE neighbours_NN2 and_CC the_AT port_NN1 of_IO Zeebrugge_NP1 about_RG eight_MC miles_NNU2 away_RL by_II canals_NN2 ,_, Bruges_NP1 '_GE attraction_NN1 is_VBZ that_CST its_APPGE medieval_JJ architecture_NN1 is_VBZ remarkably_RR intact_JJ ._. 
Cobbled_JJ streets_NN2 with_IW gabled_JJ houses_NN2 are_VBR criss-crossed_VVN by_II a_AT1 network_NN1 of_IO tree-lined_JJ waterways_NN2 linked_VVN by_II more_DAR than_CSN 50_MC arched_JJ bridges_NN2 (_( which_DDQ is_VBZ how_RRQ the_AT city_NN1 got_VVN is_VBZ name_NN1 )_) ._. 
A_AT1 trip_NN1 in_II a_AT1 motorised_JJ open_JJ punt_NN1 ,_, with_IW stripy_JJ red_NN1 and_CC white_JJ umbrellas_NN2 at_II hand_NN1 as_CSA shelter_NN1 from_II the_AT Belgian_JJ drizzle_NN1 ,_, is_VBZ an_AT1 enjoyable_JJ way_NN1 to_TO find_VVI your_APPGE bearings_NN2 ,_, and_CC at_II 2_MC for_IF half_DB an_AT1 hour_NNT1 ,_, offers_VVZ a_AT1 quick_JJ fix_NN1 of_IO what_DDQ exactly_RR hooks_NN2 all_DB these_DD2 tourists_NN2 ._. 
As_II the_AT boat_NN1 chugs_VVZ under_II the_AT low_JJ arched_JJ bridges_NN2 ,_, the_AT driver_NN1 catalogues_NN2 in_II Dutch_JJ ,_, French_NN1 ,_, German_JJ and_CC English_NN1 the_AT exhibits_NN2 in_II this_DD1 living_JJ museum_NN1 ._. 
There_EX is_VBZ St_NP1 John_NP1 's_GE Hospital_NN1 ,_, the_AT first_MD in_II Europe_NP1 ,_, built_VVN in_II the_AT thirteenth_MD and_CC fourteenth_MD centuries_NNT2 ,_, although_CS founded_VVN much_RR earlier_RRR ,_, and_CC still_RR in_II use_NN1 until_CS the_AT 1970s_MC2 ;_; the_AT Beguinage_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 religious_JJ foundation_NN1 for_IF women_NN2 that_CST dates_VVZ back_RP to_II the_AT twelfth_MD century_NNT1 ,_, now_RT a_AT1 convent_NN1 ;_; the_AT thirteenth-to_MD fifteenth-century_JJ Church_NN1 of_IO our_APPGE Lady_NN1 ,_, with_IW a_AT1 350ft_NNU tower_NN1 ;_; the_AT Stadhuis_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 magnificent_JJ Gothic_JJ town_NN1 hall_NN1 dating_VVG from_II 1376-1420_MCMC ._. 
The_AT Blue_JJ Guide_NN1 lists_VVZ almost_RR 20_MC museums_NN2 ,_, churches_NN2 and_CC galleries_NN2 within_II a_AT1 circular_JJ area_NN1 about_RG half_DB a_AT1 mile_NNU1 across_RL ._. 
The_AT contents_NN2 of_IO these_DD2 buildings_NN2 are_VBR no_AT less_RGR spectacular_JJ than_CSN their_APPGE exteriors_NN2 ._. 
The_AT St_NP1 John_NP1 's_GE Hospital_NN1 allows_VVZ a_AT1 glimpse_NN1 of_IO early_JJ health_NN1 care_NN1 ,_, with_IW mock-ups_NN2 to_TO show_VVI how_RRQ the_AT patients_NN2 were_VBDR housed_VVN in_II rows_NN2 of_IO wooden_JJ cots_NN2 ,_, and_CC cared_VVN for_IF by_II nuns_NN2 and_CC friars_NN2 ._. 
Displays_NN2 of_IO early_JJ surgical_JJ instruments_NN2 give_VV0 a_AT1 chilling_JJ glimpse_NN1 of_IO the_AT pain_NN1 the_AT sick_NN1 must_VM have_VHI endured_VVN before_II anaesthetic_NN1 was_VBDZ invented_VVN ._. 
The_AT hospital_NN1 's_GE fifteenth-century_JJ chapel_NN1 houses_VVZ a_AT1 small_JJ collection_NN1 of_IO works_NN by_II Hans_NP1 Memling_NP1 :_: exquisite_JJ ,_, jewel-like_JJ portraits_NN2 and_CC interpretations_NN2 of_IO biblical_JJ scenes_NN2 and_CC Christian_JJ legends_NN2 ,_, as_RG vivid_JJ as_CSA when_CS he_PPHS1 painted_VVD them_PPHO2 500_MC years_NNT2 ago_RA ._. 
In_II the_AT chapel_NN1 at_II the_AT Beguinage_NP1 ,_, you_PPY can_VM listen_VVI to_II the_AT nuns_NN2 chanting_VVG their_APPGE prayers_NN2 wearing_VVG the_AT white_JJ headresses_NN2 and_CC black_JJ robes_NN2 of_IO the_AT original_JJ beguines_NN2 ._. 
The_AT Church_NN1 of_IO our_APPGE Lady_NN1 has_VHZ a_AT1 Michelangelo_NP1 sculpture_NN1 of_IO the_AT Madonna_NP1 ;_; the_AT Gothic_JJ hall_NN1 in_II the_AT Stadhuis_NP1 is_VBZ crowned_VVN by_II a_AT1 magnificent_JJ wooden_JJ vaulted_JJ ceiling_NN1 ._. 
Elsewhere_RL there_EX are_VBR Breughels_NN2 ;_; walls_NN2 covered_VVN with_IW Delft_NN1 tiles_NN2 ;_; a_AT1 medieval_JJ belfry_NN1 with_IW 366_MC steps_NN2 from_II which_DDQ you_PPY can_VM gaze_NN1 down_RP on_II the_AT town_NN1 's_GE steep_JJ ,_, red_JJ tiled_JJ roofs_NN2 ;_; holy_JJ blood_NN1 brought_VVN back_RP from_II the_AT crusades_NN2 ._. 
You_PPY begin_VV0 to_TO feel_VVI dizzy_JJ with_IW history_NN1 ._. 
Of_RR21 course_RR22 ,_, the_AT well-groomed_JJ head_NN1 of_IO modern_JJ Bruges_NP1 pops_VVZ up_RP all_RR over_II the_AT place_NN1 to_TO remind_VVI you_PPY that_CST this_DD1 is_VBZ not_XX really_RR a_AT1 medieval_JJ theme_NN1 park_NN1 at_RR21 all_RR22 ._. 
On_II Saturday_NPD1 morning_NNT1 ,_, we_PPIS2 watched_VVD outside_II the_AT Stadhuis_NP1 ,_, where_CS couples_NN2 still_RR marry_VV0 in_II the_AT Gothic_JJ hall_NN1 ._. 
Limousines_NN2 drew_VVD up_RP to_TO disgorge_VVI a_AT1 wedding_NN1 party_NN1 ;_; women_NN2 in_II elegant_JJ outfits_NN2 topped_VVN with_IW splendid_JJ hats_NN2 were_VBDR a_AT1 fanfare_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 bride_NN1 who_PNQS stepped_VVD out_II21 of_II22 an_AT1 old_JJ white_JJ Daimler_NP1 ,_, tanned_VVN beneath_II her_APPGE white_JJ silk_NN1 ._. 
Very_RG bourgeois_JJ ,_, but_CCB that_DD1 is_VBZ probably_RR what_DDQ Bruges_NP1 has_VHZ always_RR been_VBN ._. 
The_AT patrons_NN2 of_IO all_DB this_DD1 art_NN1 were_VBDR merchants_NN2 in_II the_AT thirteenth_MD century_NNT1 ,_, who_PNQS profited_VVD from_II cloth_NN1 manufacture_NN1 ._. 
From_II the_AT fourteenth_MD to_II fifteenth_MD centuries_NNT2 ,_, Bruges_NP1 was_VBDZ the_AT chief_JJ market_NN1 of_IO the_AT powerful_JJ Hanseatic_JJ trading_NN1 league_NN1 ._. 
At_II the_AT end_NN1 of_IO the_AT fifteenth_MD century_NNT1 ,_, one_MC1 enterprising_JJ family_NN1 realised_VVD there_EX was_VBDZ money_NN1 to_TO be_VBI made_VVN from_II all_DB the_AT foreign_JJ merchants_NN2 ,_, and_CC turned_VVD their_APPGE house_NN1 into_II sort_NN1 of_IO prototype_NN1 stock_NN1 exchange_NN1 ._. 
The_AT family_NN1 name_NN1 ,_, Beurze_NP1 ,_, explains_VVZ the_AT origins_NN2 of_IO the_AT name_NN1 for_IF similar_JJ operations_NN2 all_RR over_II the_AT Continent_NN1 ._. 
Their_APPGE house_NN1 is_VBZ now_RT a_AT1 bank_NN1 ._. 
Nowadays_RT the_AT bourgeoisie_NN1 is_VBZ more_RGR likely_JJ to_TO patronise_VVI the_AT city_NN1 's_GE luxurious_JJ food_NN1 and_CC clothes_NN2 shops_NN2 ,_, all_RR housed_VVN in_II the_AT medieval_JJ streets_NN2 ._. 
The_AT oldest_JJT tavern_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT Vlissinghe_NN1 ,_, of_IO which_DDQ mention_NN1 was_VBDZ first_MD made_VVN in_II 1552_MC ,_, but_CCB there_EX are_VBR hundreds_NNO2 of_IO little_JJ bars_NN2 and_CC cafes_NN2 ,_, many_DA2 of_IO them_PPHO2 housed_VVD in_II olde-worlde_JJ buildings_NN2 that_CST have_VH0 the_AT Americans_NN2 squealing_VVG with_IW delight_NN1 ._. 
Plenty_RR have_VH0 terraces_NN2 from_II which_DDQ to_TO watch_VVI the_AT world_NN1 go_VV0 by_II accompanied_VVN by_II a_AT1 hot_JJ waffle_NN1 or_CC a_AT1 glass_NN1 of_IO beer_NN1 ._. 
There_EX were_VBDR once_RR 40_MC breweries_NN2 in_II Bruges_NP1 ,_, and_CC although_CS now_RT there_EX are_VBR only_RR two_MC ,_, the_AT choice_NN1 of_IO Belgian_JJ beers_NN2 is_VBZ still_RR enormous_JJ ._. 
One_MC1 cafe_NN1 lists_VVZ 300_MC ._. 
My_APPGE rich_JJ ,_, dark_JJ Trappist_NN1 practically_RR knocked_VVD me_PPIO1 for_IF six_MC at_II lunchtime_NNT1 ,_, while_CS a_AT1 deep_JJ red_JJ cherry_NN1 beer_NN1 ,_, Kriek_NP1 ,_, tasted_VVN like_II alcoholic_JJ cough_NN1 mixture_NN1 ._. 
For_IF more_RGR substantial_JJ meals_NN2 there_EX are_VBR plenty_PN of_IO bigger_JJR cafes_NN2 and_CC restaurants_NN2 offering_VVG set-price_JJ menus_NN2 ._. 
The_AT north_ND1 side_NN1 of_IO the_AT market_NN1 square_NN1 ,_, the_AT Markt_NN1 ,_, is_VBZ lined_VVN with_IW them_PPHO2 ,_, and_CC for_IF about_RG 6_MC you_PPY can_VM have_VHI three_MC basic_JJ courses_NN2 ._. 
For_IF a_RR21 little_RR22 more_RGR many_DA2 include_VV0 fish_NN treats_VVZ such_II21 as_II22 half_DB a_AT1 dozen_NNO oysters_NN2 in_II season_NNT1 ;_; waterzooi_NN2 ,_, fish_NN cooked_VVN in_II a_AT1 light_JJ stock_NN1 and_CC served_VVN with_IW leeks_NN2 and_CC carrots_NN2 ;_; a_AT1 fillet_NN1 of_IO turbot_NN or_CC chunks_NN2 of_IO eel_NN in_II a_AT1 green_JJ herb_NN1 sauce_NN1 ._. 
An_AT1 enormous_JJ bowl_NN1 of_IO mussels_NN2 cooked_VVN in_II a_AT1 delicious_JJ liquor_NN1 with_IW celery_NN1 ,_, onion_NN1 ,_, parsley_NN1 and_CC plenty_PN of_IO black_JJ pepper_NN1 can_VM be_VBI had_VHN for_IF about_RG 4_MC ._. 
The_AT open_JJ air_NN1 fish_NN market_VV0 does_VDZ brisk_JJ business_NN1 every_AT1 morning_NNT1 except_II Sunday_NPD1 and_CC Monday_NPD1 and_CC is_VBZ well_JJ worth_II a_AT1 visit_NN1 for_IF its_APPGE display_NN1 of_IO fresh_JJ and_CC smoked_VVD specialities_NN2 ,_, as_II31 well_II32 as_II33 a_AT1 huge_JJ range_NN1 of_IO shellfish_NN ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ best_JJT not_XX to_TO leave_VVI eating_VVG too_RG late_JJ ._. 
Bruges_NP1 goes_VVZ to_II bed_NN1 early_RR and_CC can_VM hardly_RR be_VBI said_VVN to_TO be_VBI throbbing_JJ with_IW night-life_NN1 ._. 
Last_MD weekend_NNT1 the_AT highlights_NN2 were_VBDR marionettes_NN2 miming_VVG to_TO Die_VV0 Fledermaus_NP1 at_II the_AT puppet_NN1 theatre_NN1 and_CC a_AT1 country_NN1 music_NN1 festival_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 did_VDD try_VVI a_AT1 night_NNT1 cap_NN1 in_II a_AT1 '_GE classical_JJ music_NN1 pub_NN1 '_GE but_CCB as_CSA it_PPH1 was_VBDZ in_II the_AT underground_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 shopping_NN1 arcade_NN1 ,_, and_CC the_AT clientele_NN1 seemed_VVD more_RGR interested_JJ in_II chomping_VVG through_II their_APPGE steak_NN1 and_CC chips_NN2 than_CSN appreciating_VVG Karajan_NP1 's_GE version_NN1 of_IO the_AT Emperor_NNB Concerto_NP1 ,_, we_PPIS2 just_RR had_VHD the_AT one_PN1 ._. 
Once_RR fully_RR saturated_VVN with_IW culture_NN1 ,_, food_NN1 ,_, drink_NN1 or_CC any_DD combination_NN1 of_IO the_AT three_MC ,_, it_PPH1 is_VBZ possible_JJ to_TO escape_VVI the_AT tourist_NN1 honeypots_NN2 ,_, which_DDQ are_VBR mostly_RR in_II the_AT centre_NN1 and_CC south_ND1 of_IO town_NN1 ._. 
To_II the_AT north_ND1 the_AT streets_NN2 are_VBR quieter_JJR ,_, and_CC by_II following_VVG the_AT canals_NN2 a_AT1 smelly_JJ exercise_NN1 in_II high_JJ summer_NNT1 ,_, no_RR21 doubt_RR22 or_CC simply_RR the_AT end_NN1 of_IO your_APPGE nose_NN1 ,_, Bruges_NP1 can_VM be_VBI appreciated_VVN on_II a_AT1 more_RGR domestic_JJ scale_NN1 ._. 
The_AT flat-fronted_JJ facades_NN2 are_VBR often_RR decorated_VVN with_IW intricate_JJ brickwork_NN1 ,_, and_CC even_RR modern_JJ restorations_NN2 seem_VV0 to_TO be_VBI strictly_RR controlled_VVN in_II a_AT1 style_NN1 that_CST combines_VVZ discreet_JJ Post-Modern_JJ twiddly_RR with_IW forms_NN2 and_CC colours_NN2 that_CST are_VBR in_II the_AT spirit_NN1 of_IO the_AT original_JJ ._. 
There_EX are_VBR few_DA2 cars_NN2 here_RL ,_, though_CS lots_PN of_IO bicycles_NN2 ,_, very_RG few_DA2 dogs_NN2 and_CC almost_RR no_AT dog_NN1 mess_NN1 (_( even_RR the_AT horse-drawn_JJ buggies_NN2 for_IF tourist_NN1 joyrides_NN2 have_VH0 built-in_VVN pooper_NN1 scoopers_NN2 )_) ._. 
Best_JJT of_IO all_DB ,_, there_EX are_VBR hardly_RR any_DD other_JJ tourists_NN2 ._. 
Accommodation_NN1 :_: The_AT Bruges_NP1 tourist_NN1 office_NN1 produces_VVZ a_AT1 comprehensive_JJ guide_NN1 ._. 
Independent_JJ travel_NN1 :_: Bruges_NP1 is_VBZ four_MC hours_NNT2 from_II Victoria_NP1 by_II train_NN1 via_II Dover_NP1 and_CC the_AT 90_MC minute_JJ jetfoil_NN1 to_II Ostend_NP1 ._. 
Alternatively_RR you_PPY can_VM fly_VVI to_II Brussels_NP1 or_CC Antwerp_NP1 and_CC take_VVI the_AT train_NN1 to_II Bruges_NP1 ._. 
Eating_VVG Out_RP :_: Plenty_PN of_IO places_NN2 in_II all_DB price_NN1 ranges_VVZ just_RR look_VV0 at_II the_AT menu_NN1 displayed_VVN and_CC take_VV0 your_APPGE pick_NN1 ._. 
Serious_JJ eaters_NN2 look_VV0 at_II the_AT red_JJ Michelin_NP1 Benelux_NP1 guide_NN1 ,_, which_DDQ lists_VVZ about_RG 25_MC restaurants_NN2 in_II the_AT centre_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 handful_NN1 of_IO which_DDQ have_VH0 one_MC1 star_NN1 ._. 
Appetites_NN2 should_VM be_VBI matched_VVN by_II pockets_NN2 ,_, as_CSA here_RL you_PPY are_VBR entering_VVG 30-a-head-plus_JJ territory_NN1 ._. 
Markets_NN2 :_: Apart_II21 from_II22 the_AT fish_NN market_VV0 ,_, there_EX is_VBZ a_AT1 general_NN1 market_VV0 every_AT1 Saturday_NPD1 morning_NNT1 on_II T'Zand_NP1 ,_, on_II the_AT west_ND1 side_NN1 of_IO town_NN1 ,_, and_CC every_AT1 Wednesday_NPD1 on_II the_AT Burg_NP1 ,_, in_II the_AT centre_NN1 ._. 
A_AT1 flea_NN1 market_NN1 along_II the_AT Dijver_NN1 ,_, one_MC1 of_IO the_AT main_JJ canals_NN2 ,_, takes_VVZ place_NN1 on_II Saturday_NPD1 and_CC Sunday_NPD1 from_II March_NPM1 to_II October_NPM1 but_CCB looks_VVZ like_II a_AT1 real_JJ tourist_NN1 trap_NN1 ._. 
Books_NN2 :_: Blue_JJ Guide_NN1 to_II Belgium_NP1 and_CC Luxembourg_NP1 (_( Black/Norton_NP1 ,_, 11.95_MC )_) ,_, good_JJ for_IF historical_JJ sights_NN2 ;_; Brugge_VV0 Inside_RL21 Out_RL22 available_JJ locally_RR for_IF about_RG 4_MC is_VBZ useful_JJ for_IF more_RGR down-to-earth_JJ matters_NN2 ._. 
Useful_JJ information_NN1 :_: From_II October_NPM1 to_II March_NPM1 the_AT Tourist_NN1 Information_NN1 Office_NN1 in_II the_AT Burg_NP1 (_( 44_MC 86_MC 86_MC )_) is_VBZ open_JJ Mon-Sat_NN1 9.30am-12.45pm_RA and_CC 2am-5.45pm_RA ,_, closed_JJ Sundays_NPD2 ._. 
It_PPH1 sells_VVZ combination_NN1 tickets_NN2 to_II four_MC museums_NN2 for_IF about_RG 3_MC ._. 
Agenda_NN1 Brugge_NP1 is_VBZ a_AT1 useful_JJ free_JJ guide_NN1 to_II what_DDQ 's_VBZ on_II each_DD1 month_NNT1 ._. 
Ostend_NP1 Ferries_NN2 :_: P&amp;O_NP1 European_JJ Ferries_NN2 (_( 0304_MC 203388_MC )_) has_VHZ up_RG21 to_RG22 six_MC sailings_NN2 a_AT1 day_NNT1 in_II each_DD1 direction_NN1 from_II Dover_NP1 to_II Ostend_NP1 ,_, crossing_VVG time_NNT1 four_MC hours_NNT2 ;_; a_AT1 60-hour_JJ return_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 4.5_MC metre_NNU1 car_NN1 and_CC two_MC adults_NN2 costs_VVZ from_II 50_MC to_II 89_MC depending_II21 on_II22 sailing_NN1 ._. 
Zeebrugge_NP1 Ferries_NN2 :_: North_NP1 Sea_NNL1 Ferries_NN2 (_( 0482_MC 77177_MC )_) has_VHZ a_AT1 daily_JJ sailing_NN1 from_II Hull_NP1 to_II Zeebrugge_NP1 :_: crossing_VVG time_NNT1 14_MC hours_NNT2 ._. 
Short_JJ break_NN1 fares_NN2 including_II one_MC1 night_NNT1 's_GE hotel_NN1 accommodation_NN1 in_II Bruges_NP1 ,_, cost_VV0 from_II 78_MC per_II person_NN1 cars_NN2 extra_JJ ._. 
P&amp;O_NP1 European_JJ Ferries_NN2 (_( 0304_MC 203388_MC )_) has_VHZ five_MC sailings_NN2 a_AT1 day_NNT1 in_II each_DD1 direction_NN1 from_II Dover_NP1 to_II Zeebrugge_NP1 :_: crossing_VVG time_NNT1 four_MC and_CC a_AT1 half_DB hours_NNT2 ._. 
A_AT1 60-hour_JJ return_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 4.5_MC metre_NNU1 car_NN1 and_CC two_MC adults_NN2 costs_VVZ from_II 50_MC to_II 89_MC ,_, depending_II21 on_II22 sailing_NN1 ._. 
P&amp;O_NP1 has_VHZ two_MC sailings_NN2 a_AT1 day_NNT1 from_II Felixstowe_NP1 to_II Zeebrugge_NP1 ,_, crossing_VVG time_NNT1 five_MC and_CC a_AT1 half_DB hours_NNT2 ._. 
A_AT1 60-hour_JJ return_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 car_NN1 and_CC two_MC adults_NN2 costs_VVZ from_II 55_MC to_II 94_MC ._. 
Dunkirk_NP1 Ferries_NN2 :_: Sally_NP1 (_( 0843_MC 595522_MC )_) operates_VVZ five_MC sailings_NN2 a_AT1 day_NNT1 from_II Ramsgate_NP1 to_II Dunkirk_NP1 :_: crossing_VVG time_NNT1 is_VBZ two_MC hours_NNT2 ,_, 30_MC minutes_NNT2 ._. 
A_AT1 60-hour_JJ return_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 4.5_MC metre_NNU1 car_NN1 and_CC two_MC adults_NN2 costs_VVZ from_II 47_MC to_II 84_MC ,_, depending_II21 on_II22 day_NNT1 and_CC time_NNT1 of_IO travel_NN1 ._. 
Market_VV0 :_: The_AT town_NN1 market_NN1 takes_VVZ place_NN1 on_II Wednesday_NPD1 and_CC Saturday_NPD1 in_II the_AT place_NN1 Jean_NP1 Bart_NNA ._. 
Hypermarket_NN1 :_: The_AT best_JJT is_VBZ Auchan_NP1 on_II the_AT RN1_FO ,_, en_RR21 route_RR22 to_II the_AT Sally_NP1 ferry_NN1 terminal_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 accepts_VVZ Visa_NN1 cards_NN2 ._. 
